The Ride

in #surfing5 years ago

A swell comes out of the depths, I'm in position.
A breaking wave in itself is miracle enough,
Yet, out of the wide expanse onto the multi-variegated shore,
That I should be where I am in relation to it,
By wisdom, by chance or by higher device - is pure wonder.

When that wave comes, what is choice?
It rises to break, I paddle, join it, for a time, on it's mission of destruction.

Moving along that aesthetic moment, just ahead of the seemingly catastrophic change from smooth, steady ocean swell into white chaotic obliteration,
Dancing on that edge of existence.

And then, the energies accumulated over miles of deep ocean, exhausted,
Dissolving onto the sand, into the pebbles, and I
Joining so late, ride with it until the end.

Pictures:
Free-Photos - Pixabay
André Hugo - Unsplash

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BEAUTIFUL. First time I have seen a #poetry #surfing post here!

Thank you 😀 The actual experience of surfing is surprisingly difficult to write about but I'm want to try to point to it as best I can.

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