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RE: Ocean antics
It's caused by backwash. A smaller wave coming off the shore and heading back out to sea.
There may have been another wave coming in front of him that he was looking at. I'm scanning the entire beach looking for this exact thing to happen. Most people miss it entirely :)
It's a cool but very odd effect. Looks like the wave forgot where it was going.
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It happens at beach's with a steep drop to the water and deep water right off the beach. Shore breaks are one term surfers use to describe this type of beach