Ah, that is a lovely story, @creatr! It must be an amazing experience out there in the ocean, especially when a nice big wave rolls in and you ride it in.
Every spring for the past four years I have taken a trip out to San Diego for a conference, and I just love to walk the boardwalk and the beach, watchingg the surfers catching the waves.
Next time you're in San Diego, don't miss the chance... It is awesome. :D