Secret Spot - This one wave
When the secret spot if firing off, and no ones around. Thats heaven to me. Its pretty rare, especially when every surf spot has been identified, and people flock to them. This one will reman a hidden gem. It goes off once a year, if you're lucky. Sunset, little off shore wind, and pumping swell... I can't think of a better way to spend you're life. This unknown surfer got one wave in the two hours he was out there waiting.
This one wave...
This one wave will be a lasting memory, one that will stand out among others, and may never happen again.
This one wave can make a really bad day in to one of the best.
This one wave can change a person's life to the point that they scour the world to find another, dropping everything they hold close to them, sell all their belongings, and start searching.
This one wave may have just changed this man's course in life, changed his priorities, and made him think bigger.
This one wave can never be ridden again, but one just like it exists.
Where is it? Where can I find one? When will it happen? I just want one!
The only way you can find one is if you search.
This one wave...
!
so dope! worth it for sure!
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Nice and fat so he could carve it. Love it :) Well written, cannot wait for another wave like it :)