Surfing ( the musings of a boy who loves surfing but is struggling to master it as well as he'd like to)

in #surfing6 years ago (edited)

Standing on a mountain looking out off a cliff as I stare in to the ocean is there something that I've missed?

There's an ocean full of waves just waiting there for me, I've tried so hard to surf them but I never do succeed.

Tell me what's my problem. Where do I go wrong? Is it when I stand up I always take to long?

I sit and wonder as I watch the waves roll in, sometimes I wonder, when did the first wave begin?

For thousands of years they've rolled in again and again, unless the seas dry up waves will never end and they're..... 1539550441545.png

Shimmering in the sun, roll'n in one by one, they've been here for a thousand years before and they'll be here for a thousand years more.
1533557463779.png
I watch the dolphins as down the waves they go, tell me, do they have to practice that or is it something that they know.
I sit and watch as they surf so easily, I sit and wonder why it's not that easy for me.

For thousands of years they've had the waves to themselves they've never had to share with anybody else.
Now they're not the only ones who surf the way they do, look out on a sunny day and there's people surfing them to

And theyre shimmering in the sun, rolling in one by one, they've been here for a thousand years be for and they'll be here for a thousand years more.
Yeah, yeah.
Shimmering in the sun. There's twenty men/women rolling down each one. They've been here for a thousand years before and they'll be here for a thousand years more.

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