Why surfing sucks?

in #surfing6 years ago (edited)

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Surfing is one of the most frustrating sport in the world. Let me tell you why in a few "pain points":

  1. Good weather conditions (swell, period, wind, tide) are rarely synchronized and when it's the case, too bad, you're either working or sleeping or in vacation far away from the beach.

  2. If you don't surf for several weeks and don't do sport aside, you lose a lot of endurance and the next surfing session can be really exhausting.

  3. There is always someone better than you in the water taking the best waves seemingly effortlessly while you're struggling in the white water.

That said, I think surfing is the best sport in the world, to the point of becoming a lifestyle for many people:

  1. The feelings of surfing are hardly describable. Once they tried it, most of people are hooked and will organize their life around surfing.

  2. I don't know many surfers who quit surfing. Even far away from the beach, because of obligations, people always come back eventually. Like Kelly Slater said: "once you're in, you're in, there's no way out".

  3. Regular surfers are usually in good shape and health.

  4. Due to the image built by the Surf Industry, people think you're cool, attractive and laid-back.

So, yeah, surfing sucks, but it's also awesome!

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Yeah, #1 is me. Always away or working when the swell is pumping.

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