Nice post @alkhemst, I grew up in the surf so I know the feeling! Although my 'monster' waves were lucky to be a few feet high. Surfing offers so many life lessons.
PS - my original reply seems to have disappeared - so apologies if my comment appears twice
What a great read my friend!
The mind is has so much control over the body its amazing - that and our natural MDR response to being held under water.
Relaxation (floppiness) is the key!
brilliant post , i can follow you ?
For sure! And thanks :)
Nice post @alkhemst, I grew up in the surf so I know the feeling! Although my 'monster' waves were lucky to be a few feet high. Surfing offers so many life lessons.
PS - my original reply seems to have disappeared - so apologies if my comment appears twice
Thanks @bec-on-the-block Certainly is heaps of lessons I've learnt out in the surf... And I'm still learning everytime!