I don't surf--don't even swim. I like to be near the water, not in it or on it, but near it. Still your description of being carried up and along on this powerful wave made me think of times in my life a comforter came alongside and lifted me up and out of some dark and dangerous situations--and afterwards, once you've calmed down, the exhilaration and joy is the same. Good work, my friend!
Ah, John, I can only wish you might also experience the pure joy of surfing! It is truly a feeling without peer, IMHO. If you're ever in Southern California, consider this a standing invitation to join me... ;)
Thanks so much for taking the time to read and to comment; I am very gratified to hear that you identified at some level with what I wrote!
Oh no, I always do regardless of whether it's outside my experience. That's what good writing does--it extends our experience. Besides, I connected with surfing on a spiritual level and that's how I meant the allusion to be taken. Good work!