What a magical story! Thanks for sharing this almost mystical testament of your surfing experience on the board that Walter gave. My best guess (knowing nothing, only intuition) of how challenging surfing seems was confirmed by this post! However, I can relate to the stubborn determination that seems to arise spontaneously when there is a strong inner desire to learn. Also, your post is very well constructed, the formatting makes it easy and enjoyable to read. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks, friend, for your kindly encouraging words.
Try surfing sometime! Only don't do it the hard way; get a long, soft board to learn on... ;)
Haha, duly noted :)