Scientific Explanation Of Ocean Wave

Explanation of waves on beach and decrease and increase in the water level, as been a misery for quite some time now. Any time i take a vacations to have some fun on the beach. The question has always remain unanswered until i finally make a deep research. Before this research the response I have been getting right from time is, it just happen. What if my kids ask me to explain, the misery behind the growth and decrease in sea level.
Will i tell them it just happen?
Definitely No.
If you are actually confuse of how this all works, this article will be of great use, take a comfortable position as you read through the article.

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It should first be noted that water makes up about 71% of the earth's surface, while the other 29% consists of the continents and islands. The breakdown of this is said to be 96.5% of all the earth's water contained within the oceans as salt water while the remaining one is 3.5% of fresh water lakes and frozen water^source.
Having known this then, it should become easier to explain the waves formation across the salty sea ocean.
Let me start by explaining water actually lead to an increase and decrease in water level which is known as tides.

What Are Tides?

Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels caused by the combined effects of the gravitational forces exerted by the moon and sun and the rotation of earth.^source
You might want to ask, how does this get to influenced the waves we found at the beach, you should get to know that the magnetic force created by the moon and the sun.

^{Animation of tides as the moon goes round the earth causing an increase and decrease in water level}
Lead to increase in water level in some region on of the earth and also a decrease in water level in some region.

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An increase and decrease in this water level will also lead to a movement in water level this movement will also lead to the creation of waves. Tides are responsible for the rise of water from the deep waters rise to the surface of the waters, this water from beneath the sea usually come up in form of waves which carries the water upward like a conveyor belt. Since the wave move upward inform of a vertical line. The higher the wave move the faster it spread across the surface of the water.
The waves cause by this tides, are said to called gravitational waves because they are caused as a result of magnetic pull of the water on the earth by the forces of the moon and the sun. But since it is an upward movement from the water, it is known to be representing the law of buoyancy.

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Here is where the wind wave comes in, as the wind blows across the surface of the water, causing friction there by leading to the formation of ripple of which continue to grow across the surface of the water.

At the point when the wind tend to blow faster than the ripple form on the surface of the water the water energy is been transferred from the wind to the water known as mechanical waves. Since mechanical waves travel when molecules in the medium collide with each other before energy is been transferred to the water. The movement of these waves from left to right across the surface of the water is known as transverse waves in which the disturbance move upward and downward. By now you must have i known that a wave is a disturbance in which energy are been transferred via matter or space.
These wave tends to grow much larger and bigger depending on some factors which are;

• The speed of the wind: the faster the wind blows across the surface of the water, the more the crest move faster horizontally across the surface of the sea to form a much more bigger one.

• Time of the wind: the length of time in which the wind blows across the surface of the water, also help to determine the size of the wave.

• Distance of the wind: the distance of the wind against the water also have a great influence, since the wind will need to travel faster than the crest in other to transfer energy.

These wave movement moves in an upward and downward movement causing a swells on the surface of the ocean. These movement continue until it get to the sea shores until when the base no longer support it top, causing it to collapse. At this point we experience a big wave we see experienced at the beach, this is the point most surfers do wait for, so that they can surf along the waves. For those that like to swim in beach water, here are few things you need to do in other to prevent yourself from fighting the current that will be returning back to the ocean.

• Swimmers should aim to get free of narrow rip current by moving parallel or diagonally to the sea shore.

• Check the sea level to know if it is in range with what you can cope with so as to avoid drowning.

• Take a life guard with you in case you are trying to swim beyond the normal range.

Conclusion

The rise and decrease in sea level is caused by tides that is the gravitational pull caused by the moon and sun. While waves break is due to the friction of the wind on the surface the sea, which lead to the formation of a much more larger wave that break at the sea shore.

Thank you for reading, keep steeming and remain blessed.

Image Sources 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5

References

[1]Underwater mountains help ocean water rise from abyss [2]Ocean Waves and Currents [3]Science of Summer: How Do Ocean Waves Form? [4]Why does the ocean have waves? [5]Currents, Waves, and Tides: The Ocean in Motion [6]Wave Energy Fundamentals: How Waves Form [7]Ocean surface wave [8]Ocean rogue waves: A mystery unveiled?

[9]Scientists track monster waves below the ocean surface [10]Ocean's hidden waves show their power: Origins of giant underwater waves explained [11]Scientists track speed of powerful internal ocean waves [12]Wave beams mix and stir the ocean to create climate [13]Waves [14]Tide [15]Wave Wisdom [16]Wind Wave [17]What Percent of Earth is Water?