Tenjin Sherpa

KATHMANDU, JULY 28Tenjin Sherpa (Lama) and Norwegian climber Kristin Harila grabbed global attention and made headlines worldwide yesterday after scaling the world's second-highest peak Mt K2 in Pakistan, completing their ascent of all 14 peaks above 8000 metres in just 92 days under the latter's latest project 'She Moves Mountains'.
According to Seven Summit Treks, the duo reached the summit of Mt K2 at around 11:30am on July 27, despite a very short weather window to summit what was dubbed the 'savage mountain' by George Bell - a climber on the 1953 American expedition.Born to Pasang Wangdi Sherpa and Dorji Khandu Sherpa, Tenjin is the second-youngest among five siblings. Hailing from Makalu Rural Municipality of Sankhuwasabha district, he did not receive formal education as he had to support a family of seven even though there was a school in his village that taught students free of cost. Thus, Tenjin worked the farms and tended cattle before joining SST.
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Tenjin Sherpa from field to summit of 14 peaks in 92 days with Kristin Harila
By SANGAY SHERPA
Published: 10:42 am Jul 29, 2023
Photo: THTPhoto: THT

KATHMANDU, JULY 28Tenjin Sherpa (Lama) and Norwegian climber Kristin Harila grabbed global attention and made headlines worldwide yesterday after scaling the world's second-highest peak Mt K2 in Pakistan, completing their ascent of all 14 peaks above 8000 metres in just 92 days under the latter's latest project 'She Moves Mountains'.
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According to Seven Summit Treks, the duo reached the summit of Mt K2 at around 11:30am on July 27, despite a very short weather window to summit what was dubbed the 'savage mountain' by George Bell - a climber on the 1953 American expedition.Born to Pasang Wangdi Sherpa and Dorji Khandu Sherpa, Tenjin is the second-youngest among five siblings. Hailing from Makalu Rural Municipality of Sankhuwasabha district, he did not receive formal education as he had to support a family of seven even though there was a school in his village that taught students free of cost. Thus, Tenjin worked the farms and tended cattle before joining SST.

He has been involved in mountaineering for the past six years. Tenjin is more widely known as 'Matra Lama' in his village.Tenjin's father passed away three years ago. His elder brother died quietly in his room after suffering from an ailment. His other brother Phurba Sherpa died on Everest this climbing season near Yellow Band above Camp III. He was part of the Nepali Army mountain clean-up campaign.Married to Pema Yangi Sherpa, Tenjin has two sons - Lhakpa Sange Sherpa (15) and Lhakpa Nurbu Sherpa (13), studying in grade 10 and nine respectively at Lit-tle Moon High School. They reside in Kapan, Kathmandu, while Tenjin's mother Dorji Khandu (73) continues to live in the village.According to Yangi, the couple married on their own accord and continued to live in the village before moving to Kathmandu seven years ago. Asked if she fears for her husband who risks his life every time he goes to work, she said, "I don't. He has always returned home safely, so I don't give it much thought."When at home, Tenjin likes to catch up with friends in Kathmandu and relishes the dhindo (cornmeal porridge) his wife prepares.Tenjin's younger son Nurbu holds his father in high regard and hopes to follow in his footsteps. "My elder brother and I are proud of our father and his accomplishments. We often think of following him on his expeditions," he said.Tenjin has been working in the mountaineering sector since the tender age of 16. He has successfully scaled Everest, Lhotse, and Dhaulagiri four times, Makalu and Manaslu three times, Nanga Parbat once, and Kanchenjunga twice, including other 8,000ers with Harila. He also holds the record for the most siblings to climbKanchenjunga. He reached the summit with his three brothers - Phurba Sherpa, Phurba Dorchi Sherpa, and Chhiji Nurbu Sherpa on 15 May 2019.Tenjin and Kristin commenced on their mission by summiting Shishapangma (8,027 metres) on April 26.On May 3, they scaled Cho Oyu (8,188 metres), followed by Makalu (8,485 metres) on May 13, Kanchenjunga (8,586 metres) on May 18, Everest (8,848.86 metres) and Lhotse (8,516 metres) on May 23, Dhaulagiri I (8,167 metres) on May 29, Annapurna I (8,091 metres) on June 5. On June 10, they stood atop Manaslu (8,163 metres), Nanga Parbat (8,125 metres) on June 26, Gasherbrum II (8,034 metres) on July 15, Gasherbrum I (8,080 metres) on July 18, Broad Peak (8,051 metres) on July 23. Then by successfully ascended K2 (8,611 metres) on July 27. Tenjin and Harila have smashed the fastest summit record previously held by Nirmal Purja who had climbed all 14 peaks in six months and six days.An article on Harila's website describes Tenjin as 'an esteemed mountaineer from Seven Summit Treks, who has been Kristin's trusted companion on this extraordinary journey. His invaluable expertise and profound connection with the mountains have been integral to their success in navigating treacherous terrain and facing harsh weather conditions.'