Muscles Most Used in Rock Climbing

Something that has always intrigued us as climbers is to know which muscles are most used in climbing.

It is clear that the whole body is used for climbing, but some muscle groups, physical structures, and soft tissues are more demanded in this sport.

climbing is good and after reading this post, you will be able to find out more information about what exercises for climbers you can do to train specific muscles and improve your sporting performance.

Knowing in detail the anatomy of the main muscles involved in climbing will allow you to better understand the injuries associated with this sport, such as the pulley injury, among others.

Main muscles involved in climbing
First of all, as any climber will be able to intuit, within the main limbs involved in climbing are the fingers, hands, and forearm, which implies that the flexor muscles of the fingers are extraordinarily developed.

In turn, this will mean that over time, there will be further development of the bones, tendons, and other organs of the hands and forearms that will need to be strengthened to support the muscular work of the finger flexors.

Secondly, two of the most used muscles in climbing are located in the back: the latissimus dorsi muscle and the teres major muscle.

These are the muscular structures that are most developed in climbing, and we will describe them in detail below.

The muscles of the forearm: a distinctive area for climbers
When we talk about the muscles most used in climbing, the muscles of the forearm are probably the protagonists.

The forearm musculature is directly related to the elbow, wrist, and finger joints.

The muscles create fleshy masses in the proximal part of the forearm, extending downward from the medial and lateral epicondyles of the humerus.

The tendons of these muscles pass through the distal part of the forearm and continue through the wrist, hand, and fingers.

The flexor-pronator forearm muscles
The flexor muscles of the forearm are located in the anterior (flexor-pronator) compartment of the forearm and are separated from the extensor muscles by the radius and ulna, as well as by the interosseous membrane that connects them.

The tendons of most of the flexor muscles are located on the anterior aspect of the wrist and are held in place by the palmar carpal ligament and the flexor retinaculum, thickening of the antebrachial fascia.

The flexor muscles are arranged in four layers and are divided into two groups: superficial and deep.

Superficial group of five muscles
Pronator teres, flexor carpi radialis, palmaris longus, flexor carpi ulnaris, and flexor digitorum superficialis [FSD].

All of these muscles insert at least in part through a common flexor tendon from the medial epicondyle of the humerus, the common insertion of the flexors.

Deep group of three muscles
Flexor digitorum profundus [FPD], flexor pollicis longus and pronator quadratus.

The five superficial muscles cross the elbow, and the three deep muscles do not.

The long flexor digitorum longus muscles (FSD and FPD) also flex the metacarpophalangeal and wrist joints.

The FPD flexes the fingers slowly; its effect is reinforced by that of the FSD when speed and flexion are required against some resistance.

When the wrist is flexed at the same time as the metacarpophalangeal and interphalangeal joints, the long finger flexor muscles operate over a shorter distance between insertions, and the result of their contraction is, as might be expected, less.

Extending the wrist increases the operating distance and their contraction is more effective and allows for a strong grip.

The tendons of the long flexors of the fingers cross the distal portion of the forearm, wrist and palm, to continue to the first four fingers: the FSD flexes the middle phalanges, and the FPD the distal phalanges.

bones, muscles and compartments of the forearm, the main area in which the most used muscles in climbing are found.
Bones, muscles and compartments of the forearm, the most distinctive muscular extremity of climbers.
The superficial (intermediate) layers of the flexor muscles of the forearm are listed below.

The pronator teres muscle
This fusiform muscle pronates the forearm and flexes the elbow.

It has two proximal insertion heads, one of which is the common tendon of the flexor muscles.

Its distal insertion is located at the most lateral point of the radius (approximately in the middle of its curved body) to provide maximum leverage.

The pronator teres muscle stands out when the forearm is strongly flexed and pronated, its lateral border forming the medial limit of the ulnar fossa.

To explore the pronator teres muscle, the forearm should be pronated against resistance from the supine position.

If the action is normal, the muscle will be seen and palpated at the medial border of the ulnar fossa.

The radial flexor carpi radialis muscle
This long, spindle-shaped muscle lies medial to the pronator teres muscle.

Its fleshy belly on the middle third of the forearm is prolonged by a long, flattened tendon, which becomes a cord as it approaches the wrist.

The radial carpal flexor muscle produces flexion (when acting with the flexor carpi ulnaris) and wrist separation (when contracted with the long and short radial extensors of the carpus).

When acting alone, it produces a combination of simultaneous flexion and separation of the wrist, with an anterolateral displacement of the hand.

To reach its distal insertion, the tendon passes through a duct on the lateral side of the flexor retinaculum and a vertical groove of the trapezius.

To explore the radial carpal flexor muscle, the wrist is flexed against some resistance. If the action of the muscle is normal, it should be easily seen and palpated.

The palmaris longus muscle
This small fusiform muscle is missing on one or both sides in 14% of people, but its actions do not disappear.

It has a short belly and a long tendon, which runs superficial to the flexor retinaculum and inserts into it and into the apex of the palmar aponeurosis.

To explore the palmaris longus muscle, the wrist is flexed and the fingertips of the little finger and thumb are brought close together.

If the muscle is present and acting normally, its tendon should be easily seen and palpated.