Is the Fashion Industry Incorporating More Plus-Size Options?
Despite the presence of curve models on the runway and an undeniable market opportunity among consumers, fashion has remained stubbornly inaccessible to plus-size women. Back in October 2017, Alexander McQueen put two curve models in its runway show. This is something the brand had never done before. The following season they decided to do the same thing due to being celebrated by the fashion press. Plus-size models are increasingly easy to find at off-runway fashion events, too. Although plenty of big names in the fashion industry, such as brands and designers are collecting positive press by letting a larger woman come to their show or after-party, or doing a mass-market diffusion line here and there, entrepreneurs are playing a role in filling in the retail gap. That is that most of these brands don’t make their designer label clothing in sizes these women can walk into a store and buy.
Small Increase in Plus-Sizes for NYFW Fall/Winter 2019
Last New York Fashion Week, InStyle Magazine surveyed the size charts of every designer on the CFDA calendar. They were shocked to find how much the fashion industry is failing to address size inclusivity. This season they decided to do another survey and check the stats for changes using an updated roster of brands. This time NYFW Fall/Winter 2019 saw a 4 percent increase in designers who produce clothing for sizes 14 and above. Eight out of all the brands that were surveyed last season, now have increased their size range by at least one number since September.
InStyle Survey Details
InStyle only surveyed designers that could be found on the official CFDA calendar. They only included women’s ready-to-wear brands. Designers that only create custom clothing or do not sell in retail were not included. Brands that answered in European sizes were converted to US sizing. For brands that size XS-XXL, the following conversion was used: XS=0, S=2/4, M=6/8, L=10/12, XL=14/16, XXL=18/20. This was based on the average of the designers’ conversion estimations.
Designers Offering Plus-Sizes
Nearly half of the designers at NYFW don’t make clothes to fit the average American woman. Fifty two percent of NYFW designers make clothing in a size 12 or below. Forty eight percent of NYFW designers make clothing in a size 14 or above. Thirteen percent of NYFW designers make clothing in a size 20 or above. Some of the brands that have shown the greatest improvement when it comes sizing up are Veronica Beard, Coach 1941, Self Portrait and Noon by Noor. Eckhaus Latta has jumped from a size 12 to 14, while Opening Ceremony and Ulla Johnson have gone from 10 to 12. Three designers that were newly introduced – Lela Rose, Studio 189, and Victor Glemaud are offering styles up to size 20. Christian Siriano is at the top of the chart for a second season in a row, serving looks up to a size 28.
Although these results sound like we are completely in the right to direction, we still have a long way to go when it comes to the size-inclusivity movement in fashion. Considering that some of last season’s most inclusive brands were not present on the CFDA’s FW 19 calendar. Also, when comparing last season’s data to this season’s, InStyle found that Proenza Schouler and Marina Moscone have decreased from up to 12 then, to 10 now.
The Feeling of Plus-Size Shoppers
Although these runway designers have broadened the sizes they offer, when shoppers visit stores they find that they have fewer styles in the larger sizes. But that’s slowly changing. The year 2018 alone has several had retailers such as Reformation and Walmart – extend the sizes they offer. And when Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty launched in May of 2018, the collection included plus-size lingerie along with undergarments in straight sizes.
Bloomindale’s also has plus-size offerings both in store and online, which their customers have responded well to. And has contributed to the growth of their online business over the past year. Nordstrom is another retailer that has found success with Khloe Kardashian’s denim line Good American, which includes sizes 0 through 24 and is sold in the retailer’s TBD department that carries lines including Madewell and Free People. Although we are seeing some changes in size- inclusivity it’s not changing as fast as we would hope. So, to say the least for a world that is changing so fast, the fashion world is moving at a slower pace.