Archery Elk Hunting For Beginners

in #outdoor6 years ago


The vocalizing nature of elk makes them a perfect quarry for bowhunters. Archery seasons are held during the rut, allowing hunters to call elk to the bow. Another section in this book describes calling technique in general (p. 88), but bowhunters have unique considerations. Along with the need to get close, the hunter must have shooting lanes—a difficult task in dense forests. When the elk approaches, it might suddenly appear, giving the hunter little opportunity to stealthily draw the string.

Then too, bowhunters normally don't have the advantage of watching from a treestand. The elk hunter must be mobile and physically fit, usually hiking to the elk over the very rough terrain.

All the major elk states have exclusive September bow seasons, and some have later seasons as well, especially for antlerless animals. Because those early seasons are held during warm weather, special consideration of the meat is necessary. Since their seasons are the first to be held, bowhunters have the advantage of pursuing unhunted elk. Elk is also vulnerable due to their heightened aggressiveness during the rut, and the silence of the bow doesn't spook animals out of the country as firearms might.

ARCHERY EQUIPMENT FOR ELK

Just a few decades ago, bowhunters were rare in North America. The longbow was used exclusively, and when the recurve bow appeared on the scene, championed by the late, infamous Fred Bear, the sport suddenly erupted. Not long afterward, the compound bow gained popularity, and today the vast majority of bowhunters use the compound.
The advantage of the compound is its let-off ability, which reduces the draw weight at full draw by 50 to as much as 80 percent. What this means is that you can draw the string, and have the relief of dramatically reducing the strain in holding the string back at full draw. For example, a compound bow with pound draw weight and an 80-percent let-off enables the shooter to hold only 12 pounds at full draw.

Translated in a hunting scenario, let's say you've called in a bull and he's just 1 yard from your shooting lane, but he's temporarily thrashing a sapling. You can pull the bowstring back and hold it comfortably until the bull walks into the opening. This is impossible to do for any length of time with a longbow or recurve. The compound also shoots an arrow faster, so it has less drop and more energy at the strike zone. Or if you want more about more then click here.

There are dozens of compound models these days, each having their unique system of cams and pulleys. The limbs are most commonly made of molded or laminated fiberglass.

When you purchase your bow, it's wise to do so from an archery dealer, since clerks are experienced and make wise recommendations. You can also be measured for your proper draw length, and learn how to adjust the draw weight to your ability. Many archery stores have practice ranges inside or outside the stores, giving you a hands-on experience. This can be an invaluable assist if you're new to the sport. It's critical to match your bow to your physique and capability. The draw length must fit you precisely, or you won't be able to anchor correctly. If the draw weight is wrong for you, you might wear yourself out and shoot poorly if it's too heavy. If too light, your arrow may not have sufficient energy to penetrate to the vitals.

Longbows are by far the most difficult to shoot. Some traditionalists make their own or buy wooden bows. Recurves, usually made of laminated wood and fiberglass, have double-flexed limbs and deliver more energy than longbows.

Bowsights are immensely popular with compound shooters these days, with new models and concepts appearing on the scene each year. The typical sight is mounted just above the arrow rest and has several pins, which are usually set at 10- or 15-yard increments. The archer looks through a peep sight in the string when at full draw, and then lines up the correct pin on the target. Archers who dislike sights shoot instinctively, lining up the target with their eye and arrow. This is, of course, the most challenging, and it demands constant practice.

Like bows, arrows have come a long way in the last couple decades and vary widely. Two basic elements do not vary, however. These are the absolute need to be straight and uniform-exact in weight, length, and diameter. Carbon and aluminum are the most popular, but some hunters still shoot fiberglass and wood arrows. Invest in high-grade arrows that are properly spun and are suited to your bow.

The fletching, once made exclusively of feathers, is now made of feathers or plastic, depending on the preference of the hunter. Fletching stabilizes the arrow and helps it rotate, which is essential for accuracy and a suitable trajectory. The nock at the end of an arrow should be securely fastened, and it's a wise idea to have brightly colored fletching and nocks. You'll be able to see the arrow easier as it hits the target, and you'll locate a spent arrow afterward with less searching.

Broadheads must be in perfect working order to accomplish their mission. They should be matched to your arrows, and they must be exceedingly sharp. You can choose from a dozen styles, some having two, three, or more blades, some with detachable blades, different shaped blades, etc. Take a blade sharpener on your hunt or extra replaceable blades, and use the same weight blades when you hunt that you did when you practiced with field tips.

No bowhunter should go hunting for any animal without spending extensive time at the practice range. Of all the hunting choices today, bowhunting requires the most practice. And though an elk is big and more difficult to miss than a deer, his very size requires a pinpoint shot, since hitting the very large shoulder bone is woefully ineffective. A neck shot is also unwise. There is only one target on an elk that the bowhunter should take, and that's directly behind the shoulder and into the lungs. To do this, the bull should be standing broadside in an opening wide enough for your arrow to clear without striking the tiniest twig. Any other shot is iffy, unwise and unethical.

It goes without saying that knowledge of calling, with both the bull and cow call, is extremely important because of the necessity of luring the quarry in close. For camping equipment see the review.

Because elk can't be counted on to use trails as consistently as whitetails due to the vast country they live in, hunting from a treestand is impractical. Calling is essentially the best option, though bowhunters may be able to ambush elk near water holes in arid areas and during dry spells. Wallows are other places to watch from a stand and can be extremely productive. Elk that goes to wallows and is undisturbed can often be readily patterned.

Full camo clothing is a must for bowhunters. Most people have a decided preference for a particular pattern of camo. Whatever type you like, the important rule is to remain motionless, since an elk will spot movement from a distance. Make your draw when the animal is moving behind brush or is momentarily distracted. Face paint or a tight-fitting face mask should be worn, as well as camo gloves. Keep in mind that an elk might be well within range, but because of brush or the animal's angle, you won't have a shot. You'll need to wait him out, and hope your camo and the wind keeps him fooled to the point where he'll take a step and finally offer a shot.

If that happens and your arrow is true, you will have experienced one of the finest moments in bowhunting. Working a bull one-on-one, from the ground, is one of bowhunting is greatest challenges.

DEDICATED PRACTICE is mandatory for anyone planning on hunting elk with a bow and arrow. If you want to know more about hunting then see this link.

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