Spurge and the Upside Down Elephant

I can’t decide if the title of this post sounds more like the name of a punk rock band or a children’s book. But it’s so funny and whimsical--like almost everything in France--that I just had to use it.

We’re on the Mediterranean now, about six hours from Lyon, where we spent two days in wide-eyed wonder. Even Michel, a French native, had never traveled to this part of the country. The sights were new for all of us, so I have to take time to write about our adventures there.

Lyon is a magnificent city. From its grand, sweeping views of the countryside to the Rhone twisting its way through the ancient hills, to the Byzantine and Roman influences of the architecture, it’s a place unlike any I’ve ever been. It didn’t remind me of anywhere. Unlike Paris with its fleeting similarities to other highly cultured large cities I’ve visited, and certain parts of central France that calls to mind the Shenandoah Valley, and Six-Fours Les Plages that reminds me of Southern California, Lyon stands alone in my experience. Longboats line the riverbanks and people teem in its courtyards, and buildings form solid barriers of civilization that line the Rhone like fortress walls. From cobblestone streets to some of the most sophisticated tunnels systems in the world, Lyon is a mix of old and new, of splendor and practicality.

We started our exploration at the top of the world--a nineteenth-century basilica called “Notre-Dame de Fourvière.” This is a religious landmark, and I’m not a particularly religious person (“religious” not to be confused with “spiritual,” as there is a difference) so I was a bit underwhelmed at first. The wall on a neighboring street that’s completely covered with ivy caught my attention and held it while Michel and Martia explored the basilica grounds.

So did the purslane growing through cracks in the sidewalk outside, intertwined to a leaf with its toxic lookalike spurge. This is the best photo I’ve ever seen of them growing together. Spurge is the creeping weed with the flat, dark green leaves. Purslane is the creeping weed with brighter green, succulent leaves, and is one of the most nutritious plants on Earth. You can believe I uprooted some purslane to take with me and start in a portable container garden, since I have no home anymore and no ground to plant anything in. (This is by choice; those unaware of my recent major life changes can read more about them in previous blog posts here on Steem.)

In the end, I did take some striking photos of the basilica, as it’s difficult to remain unmoved by its size and design detail.

Then Michel, in his typical Traveler style, quietly redirected me to the side of the basilica with its overlook of the Rhone Valley. And that’s where Lyon captured me, high on that mountain, with a view of the city that looked like a painted masterpiece one might find hanging in the Louvre.

It was in this side courtyard that we also saw European chestnut trees growing tall and sturdy with their prickly fruit ripening in the sun.

I never discovered the purpose of this memorial tree, but it certainly offers a touching presentation.

From there we went to the Ancient Theatre of Fourvière, the ruins of a Roman ampitheater just down the hill from the basilica. Construction on that landmark began in 15 B.C. and finished in the 2nd Century. It contains seating for about ten thousand people and is still used as a cultural venue, particularly during the annual Nuits de Fourvière festival.

As dusk fell, we had a great city view of the “Upside Down Elephant,” which is what many call the Notre-Dame de Fourvière because it’s main structure resembles the body of an elephant, with its four towers serving as the four legs.

We saw cobblestone streets that looked like photos from a travel magazine.

We saw impressive architecture and accent lighting on modern streets that simply took the breath away.

McDonalds and American Sandwiches are there to prove that unhealthy U.S. cuisine is a novelty everywhere.


While right down the street, a quintessential French restaurant shows everyone how it’s really done.

Motorcycle enthusiasts are well-represented in Lyon.


And everywhere there is beauty--even the doors in France are stunning.

We spent a lovely day in a lovely city, one I hope to visit again some day. I’d enjoy a cruise down the Rhone on one of Lyon’s large dinner boats and I’d like more time to explore the old Roman ampitheater. It’s just one of those places I want to know better. Now that I’ll be living somewhere within driving distance, I suspect the opportunity may well present itself soon.

From Steemhouse to you: bonjour!