Be the First

What makes people get over themselves, fight to the end, knowing that they could die even without reaching their goal. Why the human spirit seeks to conquer, to challenge and win? Because "to be first" is not just to be ahead, or faster, stronger or smarter than others. It's to feel and predict where will go others, and maybe even lead them. Because after the first eager the second and third... And after some time wanting to follow the example of the "first" becomes more and more.

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Chomolungma better known as Mount Everest, earth's highest peak (8848 meters). Its top is the goal of all lives of professional climbers and ordinary people, it's like winning gold at the Olympics. Yeah, you're not the first, dozens of people were here before you, and hundreds will be after, but the fact that you conquered this monster overshadows everything else. Many people repeat this heroic deed a few times, in different conditions, constantly trying to set new records to be the first on Everest at least in something. But who was a man who first looked at our world from the top of mount Everest?

Officially Everest was conquered for the first time in 29 may 1953 by Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary. But for 30 years before that, in 8 june 1924, two daredevils were just 300 meters from the top, and were preparing to subdue it before sunset. Their names were George Mallory (37 years old) and Andrew Irvine (22 years old). It was the last day when they were seen alive.

George Mallory was an experienced climber, he participated in three expeditions (1921, 1922, 1924), which made a reconnaissance of the terrain and paved main routes to Everest, that are used to this day. Also the expedition reached previously unattainable height of 8300 meters. George Mallory and 12 participants of the expedition at the Olympic winter games 1924 in Chamonix were awarded by gold medals for the first time introduced category — mountaineering. After a few months of this award Mallory went to Everest with steadfast resolve to conquer this giant.

Answering the question of what leads people to risk their lives, he replied "to Overcome the mountain peaks – it is as much art as writing poetry and composing music. It all comes from the soul, because it is built on unselfishness".

Andrew Irwin, unlike Mallory, had been very young and inexperienced. But he was physically well built. From a young age, Irvine was involved in sports, particularly rowing, the exceptional ability of the rower made him a star. He was also a great engineer, he was responsible for the oxygen cylinders that were first used to avoid altitude sickness, and he improved it constantly, as the rest of the climbing gear.

image source Andrew Irwin & George Mallory

The height (not rocks, snow and wind) is the main enemy of climbers on the way to the top. Because of changes in pressure and composition of the atmosphere the body is under tremendous stress and serious consequences, here are some of them:

• Total physical fatigue, cooling, dehydration, ultraviolet radiation. But the main pathological factor of altitude sickness is hypoxia. Begins the pulmonary edema and swelling of the brain tissue. In the Himalayas, hypoxia starts to develop at an altitude of 5000 meters. Pain sensitivity with increasing hypoxia decreases up to its complete loss.
• Disturbance of digestion, As a result, the weight loss (up to 15-22 kg for 6-7 weeks at an altitude of 6000 m). At the height of one can experience the imaginary feeling of fullness of stomach, mild swelling in the epigastric region, nausea, diarrhea.
• At altitudes of about 4500 m reduced visual acuity, "blurred" vision in General. At high altitudes reduces the accuracy of correctness of definition of distance. Also it's possible to get a snow blindness.

image source George and Andrew stand on the left side

George and Andrew started climbing at 8 am from the camp at the altitude of 8200 meters. Last time their colleague saw them about 12:55, weather over the top became better, and several minutes he could see two black dots at the foot of the second stage (8610m), then clouds hid them.

The second step is the most difficult part on the way to the top. It's a large rock with a steep slope, which begins at a height of 8610 feet above sea level, and rises to 40 meters above. On the upper five meters of the slope becomes almost vertical cliff (today climbers overcome it with the help of ladders, which were established by Chinese in 1975). An experienced climber spend approximately 2 hours to pass this section. And you need spend another 2 hours to cross the third step (it's more easier than second).

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The body of George Mallory was discovered only in 1999, not far from the place where he and Irvine have set up a tent before climbing onto the 1st step, it is obvious that he was coming back after the climb. The body of Irvine was not found.

Unknown, did Mallory reach the top, but on his body wasn't found signs of fall. Fragile items such as glasses was lying intact in his pocket - obviously he took them off, because he went down in the night, ie, has passed enough time for he managed to go up and down from the top. The photo of his wife and the British flag, which he planned to leave on the top, were gone. Also on a cliff, 300 meters above Mallory's body found the ice axe of Irvine, with the torn rope on it, indicating that he fell, but again it is not clear on the descent or rise. Still cannot find neither oxygen cylinders nor photo cameras climbers.

The purpose of this article is not to prove that Irvin and Mallory were firsts, just try to imagine that one of them was on the top!

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What if Mallory reached the top and left there a photo of his wife and the flag, on the return descent it quite a bit not reached to the saving of the tent and died of frostbite.

Maybe Mallory could not overcome the second step and transferred his belongings to Irving, who reached the top, he was strong enough physically to cope with the rise. (that's why Mallory was found without equipment).

Or maybe they were there together. You can ask why no one didn't find traces of their stay? Well no one, after Irvine and Mallory, could not rise above 8500, not to mention the top. Edmund Hillary reached it only 30 years after and he made the ascent on the other side of the mountain. For 30 years, weather has not left any traces of other people.

Imagine that Mallory and Irvine made it, on the descent, they realized that may not survive, but they believed that left their mark in history, and even if they will die, other people will discover their achievements, history will remember their feat.

George Mallory and Andrew Irvine did not expect that time and nature will erase the result of their achievements, and after 90 years of their heroic death, the world will praise the other heroes. But they knew that they will pave the way for hundreds and thousands of others people.

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"The spirit of adventure must not die. And if for his salvation will have to pay life, well… It would be a sacrifice for a good cause." -George Mallory

sources: George Mallory, Altitude sickness, Three Steps of Everest, Mount Everest expedition 1924, and other...

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