Usually you can’t...if you CANT: Get a scope level
Two dollars and five cents doesn’t sound like a huge amount of money however times it by 150 and it starts to mount up. $307 sounds a little more significant as a dollar figure I guess right? So what do these numbers mean? Well, 150 is about the number of bullets I would shoot in a session of practice for my competition shooting and $2.05 is the cost of each round. I make my own so they are a little cheaper and much more accurate than factory rounds are. I practice behind my competition gun about 9 times a year and compete about 5 times and use about 150 rounds per competition. That works out to 2,100 rounds at a $4,305 total investment in ammunition. Long range tactical shooting is an expensive sport.
Due to the cost I strive to get the best out of each and every round I send down range. I work to become an expert at reading the environmental conditions, perfect my breathing and trigger-pull protocol and have my equipment set up as perfectly as possible. One piece of essential equipment for a long range shooter is a scope level.
What is a scope level
It’s a small bubble level that gets mounted to the gun or scope permitting the shooter to check whether the rifle is level prior to firing. I use an Accuracy 1st scope level which uses a ceramic ball floating in fluid inside the level rather than an actual bubble. At different altitudes and temperature a typical fluid level bubble can change in size giving inaccurate readings. The ceramic ball stays constant in size. It is more accurate. I also have a small tritium vial inserted into the back of my level. Tritium is a radioactive isotope that glows for about 15 years or so. I use this to light the level up for low-light situations. It glows through the level and provides enough illumination to read it by. The scope level I use is designed specifically for military use where this feature could be a life and death thing.
Why use a bubble /scope level
When adjusting point of impact on a scope the shooter moves (dials) the relevant elevation required into the scope. It moves the cross hairs upwards the further out the target is. A 1000m shot needs more elevation dialled in than a 500m shot for instance. More elevation arcs the bullet in at a greater angle defeating gravity and increasing the point of impact distance accordingly. Bullets don’t fly flat and straight, they fly in an arc heading upwards from the rifle muzzle, reaching a zenith, and then they arc downwards to the point of impact. Gravity pulls downwards and so the bullet needs to compensate.
So, if the rifle is canted (leaned) one way or the other something different happens. Let’s say your rifle is canted to the right by 3 degrees. (An almost imperceptible amount). Let’s also assume you need to input some elevation to reach the target and so you dial in the relevant elevation to the scope. Because the scope will dial the crosshairs directly vertical to itself your cross hairs will simply move upwards and to the right, the direction of your 3 degree cant. Make sense?
From here you are in big trouble. What will happen is that the crosshair will not have travelled up in elevation as far as the input desired, and that you actually dialled in, as it is also travelling to the right, at an angle, at the same time as upwards. You have also added additional windage as the crosshairs have moved right.
Quite simply the bullet will miss the point of aim low and right. Make sense still?
There is no point in trying to level the crosshairs on something down range because you’ll never know what is level and what is not. That’s where the scope level comes in.
What difference could it make
Out of a possible 360 degrees 3 degrees is a small amount. As I said most people would never even realise the rifle was canted by that small amount. I have done some tests though and what effect that small amount of cant may have on my shot and it’s quite interesting to see the result.
Applying a 3 degree right side cant to my rifle for a shot taken at 914m (1000 yards), after dialling the correct elevation setting to the scope it took the bullet almost 61cm (24 inches) to the right of my intended point of impact. That’s a huge amount and is a miss every day of the week. (This test was using a 175gr Sierra HPBT projectile from a .308 calibre rifle).
This afternoon I changed the scope mounting rings on my competition rifle and so had to re-level the scope all over again. I actually hate doing it to be honest. It’s an involved process using little bubble levels to make sure the rifle is dead level, a plumb line and various little bits and pieces as per the image. It took me about an hour to get right and to be honest I am not really happy with the accuracy of my efforts. I will have another go on the weekend. It’s such an important part of my sport, in fact any long range shooting, though and so is something I persist at until I am happy it’s perfect.
I have tried not to get too technical in the post and hopefully I have explained the concept of rifle cant and the importance of a scope level to the accuracy of a shot. When you watch some Hollywood movie now and see someone shooting a rifle at a 90 degree cant hopefully you’ll scoff and say, “he wouldn’t hit a thing!” Well, of course the actual range and calibre makes a difference I guess, but shooting rifles at a cant is not the easiest thing to do when working hard at it, let alone in the middle of a firefight. The guy on the left is probably not that much of a threat for the reasons above. Oh, and not looking where the gun is shooting won't improve your accuracy either. IMAGE SOURCE
Design and create your ideal life, don't live it by default.
@galenkp
Loved your post. Very interesting and informative but not overly technical. I had never considered the impact of a right/ left cant on the arc, affecting the gravity compensation.
Thanks @swenger it makes an amazing difference at long range. Out to say, 500m, not so much, well not 3 degrees or so anyway. 90 degrees right cant drops my bullet about 5 inches low and 3 inches right at only 250m!
Anyway, thanks for your comments. Much appreciated.
Most people don't realize how a minor variance grows over distance. That's one of the reasons I have trouble believing the Las Vegas shooter would have been using a bump stock for distances over 300 yards (not to mention the 32nd floor). While pinpoint accuracy is not crucial when your target is a crowd, a 1 inch "bounce" upwards on an 18 inch barrel results in a shot roughly 50 inches (4 feet) high at a distance of 300 yards (not factoring in the angle from the 32nd floor, and change in the effect of gravity on the increased arc).
Yes, there’s a lot of discrepancies with that incident. Notice how it seems to have just disappeared off the radar?
Replaced with the next in a series of distractions. Although that story fell apart rapidly due to the many inconsistencies.
The same old story and so it goes...
Interesting.
I remember in the Army they told us about a guy who sawed down the barrel of a steyr, which threw off the resonance in the barrel and wildly affected the accuracy. I think he was keen to do a bit of a spree though, so it's probably for the best. He doesn't sound like the brightest tool in the shed.
I never even thought about the cant, to be honest.
Can you make adjustments via the tripod if the rifle is tilted?
Yeah, shortening the barrel isn't smart. The barrel twist rate is required to stabilise the bullet in flight. Change the length and the bullet's trajectory and it's actual stabilisation is affected. Usually means a miss. With a shot gun there is no rifling, it's a tube, and so they can be shortened easily, but it's against the law here :)
So, yes @mattclarke, the bipod I have on the front cants left and right slightly. It is exactly the way I would adjust for cant. I get the crosshairs on the target, check level, adjust level, then start my breathing and trigger protocol then squeeze. That takes about 1.5 seconds. The legs on the bipod also extend and can move forward or back independently. I will do a post on it sometime. It's a tricky bit of kit and essential to what I do. Sometimes I shoot off a bag or some other barricade but mostly off the bipod when prone.
Ps. Did you see what I did with the title...Can't/CANT? :) Bwahaha...
I always click on top class comedy. I'm a sucker for PUNishment :)
I didn't consider this problem, one more thing to fix...but I do appreciate this information!
:)>
Cool, it's something that doesn't really matter too much until the range gets a little further out there so you've not come across it. I hope is all makes sense. Scope levels are reasonably cheap so it's an easy fix. (There's a right way to mount a scope level too, but YouTube will help with that.)
I will look into getting several. I added the scope rings to the 6.5mm Swede, so I should be able to manage the scope Vs Level. I had considered a Goniometer on the rifle, but the scope does that.
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Make sure you have a good bipod too...One needs to load the bipod generally, but not always. I free-recoil sometimes...Depends on the conditions, need for speed or what position I'm in...(Free-recoil is shooting with the butt-stock hardly touching the shoulder. Eliminates the chance for the body or breathing to influence the projectile.)
I liked the bipod loading, any chance of deflecting the bore that way?
The free recoil might be a little rough in the 300 WM. It has a 60 durometer recoil pad so it will spread out on the shoulder to lessen the single point recoil effects.
I do like the idea of reduced biologic effects.
:)>
Mmm, I don't think...I've always had more success with loading it than not. I guess it's possible on certain rifle systems. I couldn't be certain though.
Free-recoil is a situation-specific thing I think, for me anyway. There's times when loading is important. By the way, I use Atlas Bipods. A good one is important.
Well, I know they recommend that the tube never touches the stock, so I glass bedded the Swede, the 300 WM was already floating.
I will look for the Atlas bipod.
It is 4 AM here, I am going to have to go to bed.
Be Blessed!
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Night, good chatting.