Puqpress: A Valuable Tool or a Fashion Gadget?
Tamping: a small action, but one that can affect the extraction, work flow, and even the health of the barista. Training staff to achieve the same pressure, as they avoid injuries, is not easy. It may even be impossible.
The Puqpress arrives: an electronic and adjustable tamping device. Eliminate the human variable and the effort of the process. And by doing this, it promises reliable and repetitive results every time.
But does it comply with what was promised? Let's find out.
Tamping: Why So Much Scandal?
In the world of coffee, it has always been important to tamp - but the concepts of how to achieve perfect pressure have varied.
When I first became interested in specialty coffee, many years ago, I tried to absorb all the wisdom I could find about preparing espresso. Unfortunately, back then, most of this was of the "popular form", with little empirical basis.
One thing I particularly remember was the obsession with tamp. I was advised to practice with some weights until I could consistently tamp with exactly 20 pounds of pressure (I forget the seemingly arbitrary figure).
The New Objective: Consistency
Let's move on ten years later, more or less. You can still hear this advice in the barista forums, but we usually know more. Several studies have shown that the amount of pressure, once beyond a certain point, is quite irrelevant. What really matters is consistency.
And this is where the problem lies. As an example, take a coffee shop with several baristas; you do not want to recalibrate the espresso every time you change the staff that uses the machine. However, that is indeed what you need to do if you have baristas who tamper differently.
Of course, staff can be trained to replicate the style and pressure of others, but there is always going to be a bit of inconsistency. And inconsistency can lead to bad coffee and make you lose sales.
Tamping and Injury by Effort (RSI)
A second problem, perhaps more hidden, with the tamping is the possibility of repetitive strain injuries for baristas. After making the transition from amateur to professional barista, I certainly adjusted my tamping style significantly. Tamping RSI is not something you notice in a home environment. However, multiply the number of coffees you make each day, say, a hundred, and you will begin to feel discomfort and pain in your wrist and forearm.
Testing the Puqpress
The Puqpress says that it is the solution to these tamping problems - will it be? It's time to find out.
In order to thoroughly test this device, I have used it for several months with my own espresso equipment (La Marzocco FB80 and Malkhonig EK43). I also lent it to the world-famous Colonna & Smalls coffee shop in Bath, with the intention of knowing how it would work in a high-volume, extremely quality-oriented environment.
What follows is a combination of thoughts and opinions that I gathered from all users, as well as mine.
Initial Impressions
Outside the box is a relatively small device - about the same size as an average house mill. It looks clean and modern, and does not seem out of place next to the typical equipment of a specialty coffee shop.
Of course, it requires electricity. This is something you would think would not be a problem, but many coffee shops (mine included) are designed around a series of outlets that match the equipment originally specified. This may leave, if any, few additional plugs available.
Once located in an appropriate position between the mills and the espresso machine, it goes unnoticed. Of course, it also frees up a bit of space from where the rammer would have been.
The Puqpress: Yes or No?
Would I use one in my coffee shop? I think the answer is a yes. This is not necessarily because I think it tampers much better than a human. However, it leads to greater consistency when used by multiple baristas and eliminates the potential for injury. For me, it was also significantly faster than manually tamping - which, in the hectic days, was a huge help -.
The only real drawback is the cost. Although not exorbitant, it is certainly enough for many coffee owners to think carefully. The coffee shops need to consider how quickly, if the service can be accelerated and the profits can be increased, this investment could be paid back.