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RE: # How I rode a surf for the first time. Important life guide
Dude, That's a heavy HEAVY wave to just paddle out without knowledge on. You're pretty lucky. I think the Shark thing though was a way to get you out of the water. ;) Unless you saw it? Admire the stoke but be careful out there. Take your time and work up to harder breaks!
Thank you for advise :) it was my first experience, thanks God i stay alive )))