Permaculture - soil components, part four: water and air (lesson 15)

Each soil stores water in it, introduced into it with rains or watering. Some soils do it in a more permanent way (clay or with a high content of humus), while others are more permeable and dry quickly (sandy). In others, due to the impermeable ground, water remains underground (stagnant water). Both excess water and its deficiency are harmful to most plants.

If the soil is not too compacted, when it is partially or completely dry, the place of water replaces air. The air makes it easier for the roots to penetrate the soil and deliver supplies to the plant (like micronutrients) through the root system.

Since the invention of the plow, mankind has used artificial plowing to loosen the soil, enrich it with minerals and reduce weeds. While plowing extracts minerals from deeper parts of the earth, it is effective only in a short time. In the first or second season, growth is actually intensified, but a large part of minerals from the deeper layers of the earth are lost in the processes of oxidation or washing away by rains, which not all the plants can use beforehand. In addition, the balance among microorganisms is disturbed, a large part of the humus disappears. After a few seasons, the soil is impoverished and depleted and requires much more work and intensive fertilization.

A much simpler way is to build humus from above, letting it naturally loosen the soil.

In the loosening process, you can support the cultivation of certain plants that, with their rich root system, will move the soil for us (the "spike roots" method) or by loosening it with forks to a depth of up to 10 cm.

To get rid of weeds, mulch is just as effective as deep plowing. Mulching is also an excellent form of warming the ground and protecting the soil against losing nitrogen and other minerals.

Nutrients can be introduced along with compost, manure, green manure, drawing them from the deeper layers of the earth or the air (e.g. legumes and nitrogen) and mineral fertilizers.

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The spike roots method

For natural loosening of the soil, you can plant plants with deep taproots, such as Japanese radish, chicory, comfrey, artichoke, and dandelion. Plants without taproots, which, however, with their fibrous root system perfectly loosen the soil are mustard, rape, and alfalfa.

The listed plants can be sown one year before setting up a garden in places prepared for flower beds, or between flower beds (or under fruit trees/shrubs), during cultivation. The cultivation of some vegetables involves loosening the soil at harvest (root and tuber, such as carrots or potatoes)

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Indicators of moisture and aeration

Soil with stagnant water

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Light soil, well-drained

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Soil compacted, well-drained

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Soil well ventilated, rather moist

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Dry rocky soil