Tanguar Haor, Sunamganj

in TravelFeed4 years ago


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At the end of the first day, the night started in the middle of the haor! When we reached Tekerghat in Tahirpur upazila, the sun was sleeping. The sky is full of stars. Seeing such a sky, the lyricist may have written ‘Looking at you in the light of the stars full of the sky, the bird of love is a mind-blowing fan’.

Tekerghat means we are now the closest to the Meghalaya hills, all the way to the far side of the mountain can be seen from now on. And neon lights are shining all over the border area, what a beautiful sight all together!


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We chatted till 9 pm at Tekerghat Bazaar and returned by boat. I sit at the back door on the ground floor of the boat as everyone prepares to fall asleep after dinner. And honey has always been with me.

The boat is swaying in the middle of the haor, the neon lights of the Meghalaya border are shining next to it, the sky is full of stars and a huge moon is swaying in the sky, the other five of our boats are also floating next to it! I have seen these scenes only in wallpaper pictures and movies before. Sitting on the back of the boat with my legs dangling, I sang more honey. The boat was anchored and the boat was stopped, but the boat was swaying in the waves. Next to it is a boat for the boys, they are sitting on the deck of the boat and they are singing. After a while we (me and Madhu) mingled with them.


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I sat alone for a while more! Border neon lights seem to be calling me to them. After sitting like this for a while more, I went inside to sleep, the sleeping arrangement is no better than Kamalapur railway station! Everyone is sleeping in a huddle, how the five senses keep us helpless all the time, so beautiful that it did not allow us to forget fatigue!

Everyone is sleeping between waking and sleeping, one of us has a fever again, his name is Chhoya. I am lying on the opposite side with my head on his head, I am touching his head with my hands upside down, sometimes I feel like I have fallen asleep. When he woke up again with the sound of his fever, he woke up with his eyesight, seasonality and smile.! I told Drishti to wet the towel. When he opened the window to wet the towel, almost everyone woke up to his screams!

The view from the outside was really so beautiful that even the screams of her exultation seemed small. Slowly we all called with a water band on the head of the touch. I went a little late, it felt bad to leave the touch. I can't imagine seeing such a beautiful scene. The sky was fairly clear when I called. The red light of the sun has fallen on the water, Meghalaya burning in the neon lights of the night is now seen in the light of day.

Every peak of the mountain is clearly visible! The black shadows of the floating small boats have fallen into the water, all standing together watching these scenes. The sky is clearer now, everyone will go down from the deck, at that time the sun started peeking from that reddish edge of the sky to everyone's surprise! We stopped again! Believe me, the sun peeked out of the place where the sky and the water meet, the red aura of the sky, as if the sun was diving into a girl who went down to bathe in the water! His seat is like the edge of the sky !. Thus began the morning of the second day of the haor!

The boat was anchored and the boat was anchored! We all went to a guest house in front to freshen up, washed our hands and face and freshened up. Boat! What a tribal tribe I felt, I thought it would be more appropriate to have tea leaves in place of shoulder bags!

Anyway, when we returned to the boat at Tekerghat after freshening up, Humayun Kabir Sir and Huda Sir said, let's see the fountain! In the excitement of seeing the fountain, we put on our shoes without changing our shoes, and after a short walk, we came to a place where the Meghalaya hills stand just to greet us. I was waiting for Sir's permission, as soon as I got Sir's permission I started to climb the hill of Meghalaya border which I have been looking away from yesterday morning, which is not only clear to me today but I can see its footsteps today.


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I don't know if it is the hill of Meghalaya, but there are two hills side by side, one of which is not allowed to climb. Restricted Area, Sir has given us a guard with whose instructions we have walked around the hill. He said that we are in Meghalaya, India. He has given us permission to go around!

Come back to the main event! I am currently at the foot of a mountain 40 feet above (approximately, more or less), India to my right. The hills on the Indian border in Meghalaya, I am so close that the houses on the hillside can also be seen. And the water of the haor on the left hand! How transparent, how stable! Leaving the height phobia on the left, looking down a little, you can see that the water of the spring is flowing from the bottom of the hill, that water meets the water needs of the people here.

I breathe deeply, what if I can't take the air mixed with mountains, haors and springs together anymore? Everyone is very busy taking pictures. I videotaped the whole place on my cell phone, sure not to come to this place a second time.

With so little time left for us to stay on this hill, Guard Mama hurriedly started to descend! Whether it was the end of thirst for water or taking selfies in the scorching sun, everyone went down one by one without protesting. Ah! If you go down, you will not get up! Stay, but I got the touch of this mountain!


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We got down from the hill and soaked our feet in the spring water! The source of the water coming from the bottom of the hill is not known, but the water is flowing non-stop. Just as I came in a group, I went in a boat again! Everyone is sitting on the deck of the boat, shortly after arriving, the boat began to float anchored again!

Everyone is taking selfies, singing! I am sitting on the deck in front of the boat with my feet hanging in the water. At first no one was with me, then Billal, Rahat and Kankan came! Billal and I talked a lot that day, maybe I haven't talked as much in the last three years as I talked in 1 hour that day. When the boat was floating in the haor, we were talking about the village on one side and the lives of the people in that village.

Boats are the only source of livelihood for the people here, how easy it is for six- to seven-year-old boys and girls to ride in dinghy boats in these deep waters, and the people of Haor have no idea about family planning, education, sanitation. The rate of population is much higher here, it can be understood by looking at the young children. Looking at their worn-out clothes and the age of their backs, it is clear that the parents have met the demand of two children's clothes in one cloth. That is why one has learned to crawl without learning to walk. This scene reminded me of Manik Bandopadhyay's Padma river boatman.

However, after the boat had traveled a long distance, it was no longer possible for it to sink, for many sandboats were coming and going. So we called and sat down! Besides, sand-carrying boats like Shakhanek were bathing in the water while the boatmen were running. The soil is like water to us. I was just thinking, well, if the people who grew up with this water were brought to Dhaka city, would they be able to survive?

I did not try to count the boats. Everyone is sitting with their eyes on the front, the hill is a little far from us now, but there is also a hill in front. As well as two hills angled, sand and sand like the Sahara desert between them, there is water in the sand. I can't explain the color of this water with any color of my drawing. Still bluish green but bluish feeling is more.

Anyway, I still don't know where I came from, because Tahirpur Upazila is still written on the banner. I will climb the hill with this joy. The height of this hill will be a little higher than the previous one if I don't make a wrong guess. I realized the difficulty of climbing the mountain when I came here, I noticed the first signboard on the way to the mountain, the magic river!

Then I stopped for a while and looked at the river from the hill. Hundreds of boats, there is no way to understand the boat by looking from the hill. But looking at the pace of their work, it is clear that the rush to return home is present in people of all ages.

I was walking under the direction of Humayun Kabir Sir. At the sound of Sir's laughter, his eyes turned to the front again. After walking for a while more, I found the top of the hill. After going there, I looked around again. Magic river next to it, another hill next to it! Rivers and mountains as well as so beautiful that I could never imagine!

I have to say that there is selfishness in the name, really like magic, beautiful like a dream. Suddenly I saw a group of children in a place a little too much! I thought maybe everyone is taking pictures! But as he approached, the mystery unfolded. Pillar number 1203. On one side of which is written Bangladesh, on the other side India.

I am standing with two legs in two countries! I turned my eyes and drew the four sides of my mind again. The hill in front, the bluish green water beside the sand below which is shining in the yellow light of the sun like a sapphire stone. On the other side are sand-carrying boats, whose sand has reached its proper place and there is a great urge to return home.

After a while we came down from Aslam hill. Then lunch was arranged. Today's menu included haor boiled fish. When I set out to return at the end of the stomach worship, the sun has descended a little below the middle of the sky, its intensity, sharpness seems to have decreased a little. After guarding the house all day, after eating at noon, the guard of the house becomes a little drowsy, the sun seems to be a little drowsy now. In its sharp yellowish light, it was as if a frozen orange had disappeared.

Even then we are walking barefoot in the sand, the brightness of the steady light of the sun on the sand has increased the brightness of the sand a thousand times! Just as the twinkling of an eye doubles the beauty of a girl. Everyone is busy taking pictures, trying to capture the memories. The mountain river is no longer fascinating me! The sun is doing, he has changed form again. Now he is at the end of the sky. Reddish color, mixed with green in the mountains, a little darker at the edges! He is spreading this flame of light all over the area, saying goodbye to everyone.

It's as if it's time for him to leave. The truth is probably everyone understood this signal of the sun. That's why everyone was tidying up the shop. Sir told us all to get on the boat. After a while the boat left. After leaving the boat, I realized that everyone had to close the ready shop and return home. Because hundreds of boats are speeding faster than in the morning, as if the sun is angry and will not get up the next morning if you are a little late. The waves seem to swell as the boat pushes into the water, the waves crashing against the waves again, sending the boat back. So even in the morning, where Dibbi was standing, I was still sitting there, afraid of the boat rocking.

The sun merged with the river as if giving another one a chance in the sky. The real moon and stars fill the sky instead of the sun. We’re pretty much all sitting on the deck roof though very cold. I sat under the starry sky and sang. Sadika mam also joined us.

After a two-hour boat ride, we stopped at a wharf, where we had tea at a tea shop in the market. Then we all walk from Ematha to Omatha in the market.

Then maybe nine o'clock at night! We get out of the market and get on the boat, the boat starts moving again. Don't call now, sitting in the boat, since I can't talk to myself at the sound of the engine, I sat by the window and watched the rivers, the sky and the empresses of the sky.

After sailing for a while more, we stopped at a wharf, where we had dinner. The boat was then stopped for an hour for the rest of the boatmen to rest. Like the first night, on the last night, we sat on the back of the boat with our legs dangling, tonight my companion Babu Meem. The two of them are talking together, the story of the passing of time, the story of the cruelty of time. As I was telling the story, a star suddenly fell, as if the stars were playing hide and seek. Then our attention shifted from the story to the sky so we could see more stars falling.

While we were waiting for them, it was time for us to leave. At two o'clock in the morning, all the other boatmen woke up, but our boatman was still asleep.
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She was upset enough to wake him up. According to his commentary, even if we leave at four o'clock at night, we will be able to reach Tahirpur by six o'clock. Still, Sir's rebuke completely cut off his sleep. Our boat also started moving. Meem and I are still sitting on the back of the boat. The boat stopped when we were sitting here the first night, and today we are sitting here while the boat is moving. There is some fear working, if I fall into this water then this beauty will become the cause of ugliness. So, meem and me went inside, meem fell asleep. But then I opened the window once more and saw the moon in the mirror. Ah! Today is the last day near this beauty. I sighed and went to bed. It was three o'clock at night. I woke up at five in the morning shouting.

The last day is morning. Time really makes people very cruel. Today, no one's attention is focused on seeing the morning, everyone is packing their bags, looking for the lost things, whether they have gone to someone or not.

Today, no one else's mind is watching the rising sun, everyone is running like an engine. Everyone is worried about when he will return home. By 7:30 in the morning we reached Dharmapasha. From there return to the station by Laguna, when we are going back again on both sides of the road the bluish color of that Thai Thai Hazar shade, this haor, this Meghalaya hills are all going away. The mountains, the rivers, the sun are fading. Moving towards mechanics, leaving nature behind. The more the Meghalaya hills are blurred, the more intense the memory seems to be.

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