Journey through Time: Hiking the Partisan Trail in Jablanica
Welcome to Jablanica, another hidden gem in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Here, you will find the deep valley of the Neretva River, which played a significant role in World War II. In this post, we will explore the history and natural beauty of Jablanica an dhis very famous and very broken bridge.
Table of contents
- The Valley of Neretva
- The Battle over Bridge on Neretva
- One bridge, a few
- Ruins on both banks
- Reconstruction Project for Memorial Bridge
- Hiking Trail along Partisan Symbol
- Hiking down
- Remnants from Decisive Days
- Goodbye, Jablanica
The Valley of Neretva
The valley of the Neretva, a river that swings widely through Bosnia and Herzegovina, a country hardly known to many people, is a deep, narrow gulf here near the village of Jablanica. The two banks of the river are green and steep, the horizon is bordered by the mountains Čvrsnica and Prenj. Jablanica is unspectacular at first sight: 10,000 inhabitants live in the town, which calls itself the "capital of roast lamb".
The town should have been world fame because granite from here was used for the construction of the UN building in New York. But from whom? Nobody knows and most of the tourists visiting Bosnia pass only by the most significant sight of the small town. However, this town played a significant role in World War II right here at the two banks of the river. They are picturesque and they offer stunning views for photography enthusiasts. The water beneath these rusty remains is deep blue while the sun shines brightly on both sides of the bank. It's peaceful all around here at Jablanica.
The Battle over Bridge on Neretva
Exactly 80 years ago from today, one of the most bitter battles during World War II took place at Jablanica's bridge over Neretva River. Communist leader Josip Broz Tito and his partisan army forced their way out of a cauldron formed by German Wehrmacht, Italian army, royalist Chetniks and fascist Ustasha who were all marched on to destroy his army.
It was an intense battle that required many fateful decisions from Tito as he had to deal with inner conflicts between military thinking and human feelings. These events inspired director Veljko Bulajic to make "The Bridge over Neretva" film in 1969 with Pablo Picasso creating its poster.
Veljko Bulajić was later nominated for an Oscar for his film which featured stars like Hardy Krüger, Sergei Bondarchuk, Yul Brynner, Milena Dravić Curd Jürgens Franco Nero reenacting Tito's showdown against German General Lohring along with dramatic hours of decision-making process that led to risky deception before finally paving way out through a breakneck decision.
One bridge, a few
The bridge in question should not be confused with the Stari Most in Mostar as it is another one and not the same as it was in real life. The bridge in the film and during the battle was a railroad bridge, riveted from steel girders. It still connects both steep banks but tells a whole story: on one side of the bank, the bridge has fallen into the river while on other side, it still hangs today as if by a thin thread.
A large museum nearby commemorates what dramatic events took place here. The museum opened on November 12, 1978, by Josip Broz Tito to celebrate its 35th anniversary of this battle. This modern building adjoins an open area where old guns stand along with an ancient steam locomotive that also played its role in this historic battle.
It's necessary to know that although the real bridge over Neretwa was blown up during fierce battles between Nazis and partisans back in 1943; days later however partisans built temporary wooden bridges within only eighteen hours which were replaced by Germans again with new ones after few months which were finally blown up again during filming of "Battle of Neretva" movie back in 1968.
Ruins on both banks
Today, real rails and railroad buildings founded back in 1888 still stand on both banks but crossing through legendary bridges is possible only for pedestrians now due to new slope down to water almost horizontally on right bank while slight incline towards left part of this reconstructed memorial bridge built deliberately as ruin attached onto new concrete foundations at riverbed of Neretva along slope right bank above which there are wooden crossbeams laid forming wooden floor used by visitors for crossing from right to left bank commemorating crossing during battle honouring heroes who fought bravely against Nazi army and their allies.
Reconstruction Project for Memorial Bridge
The reconstruction project for the memorial bridge was completed in May 1977 as part of the project for the Museum of the Battle. The aim was not to build a real bridge, but a broken one that would serve as a monument. Today, visitors can still see real rails and railroad buildings from 1888 on both banks.
However, crossing through legendary bridges is possible only for pedestrians now due to new slope down to water almost horizontally on right bank while slight incline towards left part of this reconstructed memorial bridge built deliberately as ruin attached onto new concrete foundations at riverbed of Neretva along slope right bank above which there are wooden crossbeams laid forming wooden floor used by visitors for crossing from right to left bank commemorating crossing during battle honouring heroes who fought bravely against Nazi army and their allies.
Although crossing the bridge is prohibited at present, visitors can still hike along where Tito's partisans once set a symbol of hope and resistance by defeating Nazi army and their allies. The ways down are small narrow paths closed off with fences that require pushing past nettles fields before reaching all way down.
Here at Jablanica's very bottom river valley, it's cool and even more beautiful than it looks in photos. A hiking trail leads leisurely back up another bank where remains of this bridge protrude demonstratively destroyed into gorge revealing only real remnants from decisive days during World War II await attentive eyes.
A short tunnel has been preserved through which trains used to come while signalman's house barred windows and loopholes still reveal that it was not always peaceful here.
Hiking Trail along Partisan Symbol
Visitors can take a leisurely hike along this partisan symbol trail starting from Jablanica town center leading them towards Neretva River valley bottom passing through fields filled with wildflowers blooming in summer months offering scenic views worth capturing on camera.
As they reach the bottom of the valley, visitors can see reconstructed memorial bridge built deliberately as ruin attached onto new concrete foundations at riverbed of Neretva along slope right bank above which there are wooden crossbeams laid forming wooden floor used by visitors for crossing from right to left bank commemorating crossing during battle honouring heroes who fought bravely against Nazi army and their allies.
It's a peaceful place now where visitors can sit back and enjoy nature's beauty while reflecting on history that took place here. The hiking trail leads back up another bank where remains of this bridge protrude demonstratively destroyed into gorge revealing only real remnants from decisive days during World War II await attentive eyes.
Hiking down
Visitors should be cautious while hiking along this trail as it requires pushing past nettles fields before reaching all way down towards the bottom of the valley. However, once they reach there, they will find it cool and even more beautiful than it looks in photos.
Jablanica is an excellent destination for those interested in history, photography, budget travel or road trips. It offers stunning scenery combined with rich history that played a significant role in World War II. Visitors can explore reconstructed memorial bridges built deliberately as ruins attached onto new concrete foundations at riverbeds of Neretva along slopes right banks above which there are wooden crossbeams laid forming wooden floors used by visitors for crossing from right to left banks commemorating crossings during battles honoring heroes who fought bravely against Nazi army and their allies.
Remnants from Decisive Days
As visitors hike along the partisan symbol trail in Jablanica, they will come across remnants of the decisive days during World War II. These remnants are a testament to the fierce battles that took place here and serve as a reminder of the bravery and sacrifice of those who fought against Nazi forces.
One such remnant is a short tunnel that was used by trains during the war. Visitors can walk through this tunnel and imagine what it must have been like for soldiers to pass through it during wartime.
Another remnant is a signalman's house with barred windows and loopholes that reveal its past as an active military outpost. It serves as a stark reminder of how dangerous life was for those who lived and fought here.
Finally, visitors will see remains of the bridge that played such an important role in World War II. The bridge has fallen into disrepair over time, but its rusted steel girders still stand as evidence of the intense fighting that took place here.
As visitors explore these remnants, they will gain a deeper appreciation for the sacrifices made by those who fought in World War II.
Goodbye, Jablanica
Jablanica may not be well-known outside Bosnia and Herzegovina, but it offers travelers an opportunity to explore stunning scenery combined with rich history. From hiking trails along partisan symbols to reconstructed memorial bridges built deliberately as ruins attached onto new concrete foundations at riverbeds of Neretva along slopes right banks above which there are wooden crossbeams laid forming wooden floors used by visitors for crossing from right to left banks commemorating crossings during battles honoring heroes who fought bravely against Nazi army and their allies; there is something for everyone in Jablanica.
So why not plan your next trip to this hidden gem? Not always the places that everyone visits are the best places to visit. You won't regret exploring its natural beauty while learning about its fascinating history.
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