The White Paradise of Andalusia: A Day in Frigiliana
Hello friends. Recently I visited the white Moorish village of Frigiliana, which is considered one of the most beautiful towns in Andalusia. You can reach it in 20 minutes by bus, but to avoid wasting time at the stops, be sure to check the bus schedules on the website beforehand, as buses run infrequently. The snow-white Frigiliana is nestled on the slopes of the Almiha mountain range. This land was first settled by the Phoenicians and later the Arabs made significant changes in agriculture. They built canal and reservoir systems, which are still standing today. They also introduced new crops such as sugarcane and eggplant.
After the fall of the Kingdom of Granada, Christians from Granada settled in Frigiliana. You can explore Frigiliana independently, by tourist tram or by combining both methods. The tram waits for tourists at the last bus stop next to the Fountain of the Three Cultures. The tour is conducted by the driver in several European languages. If you don’t take the tram you won’t miss much, as the ride is quite bumpy, there’s only one stop and I didn’t see any impressive views. Walking through Frigiliana, however, is a pleasure in itself. What a beautiful place it is.
The village’s livelihood comes from ceramic production, glass painting and products made from decorative gourds. In the old palace of the Counts of Frigiliana from the 16th century, there is the only factory in Europe that produces bitter honey from sugarcane. In the narrow streets local vendors display their simple goods and you will definitely be offered honey and the local specialty strong Muscatel wines.
And how wonderful these streets are! Blooming bougainvilleas: between the houses, above your head and everywhere. The beauty and authenticity of the old streets in the Mudéjar and Morisco quarters are simply breathtaking.
We had a negative experience on the return journey: we had to wait a long time for the bus back to Nerja. After seeing everything, we could have returned to the sea, but it wasn’t possible because the buses run infrequently. We wanted to take a taxi, but they were all taken immediately. Therefore it’s important to carefully check the schedules before the trip and plan the round trip accordingly. Is it worth visiting the white village called Frigiliana while relaxing on the nearby coast? Absolutely. It’s charming, peaceful and perfect for a leisurely stroll. After enjoying beautiful landscapes through the bus window for 20 minutes, we were back home.
During the day some people go to the beach, while others take a siesta. Bars and restaurants show no signs of life during the day. It’s as if everything has died. But in the evening, a light breeze merges with melodies played by musicians, street cafés fill up with people and a pleasant hum begins. Breathing in the fresh scent of the sea, eating fresh fish to the sound of waves and sipping my favorite Rioja wine... That’s the joy of vacation life.
Was I happy with my choice of this lesser-known village on the Costa del Sol? Yes. Frigiliana is an ideal place for those seeking a peaceful, quiet holiday away from noisy metropolises. It reminded me of my beloved Amalfi.
Goodbye Frigiliana, will we meet again? The pleasure is over and now the race to discover Granada begins. We have left the sea behind and now we’ll be delighted by another sea, one that rivals the power and majesty of the ocean, the sea of unforgettable memories.
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