Time

in #gedwriting7 years ago (edited)

Time
25 March 2015 , I was heading to Vic bay which is a surf spot not far from my home town. I was heading to my first surf compition after I had been in hospital. The closer we got the more nervous I became because this is my first compition in just over a year. As I got to the even I wasn’t sure I could do this anymore. But after a short pep talk from my dad I was in the dressing room putting on my wetsuit and my wildcard jersey. Now a wildcard jersey is a coloured rash vest which helps the judges tell you apart from everyone else. As I went an sat with my dad on the deck over watching the other surfers battle it out into the quarter finals I started to siked up. I had my favorite song for preparing for heats playing on repeat.
Then my name was called to head down the beach. I gave my dad a hug and he said “goodluck my boy relax and have fun”. I headed down to the beach and started paddling out racing my opposition out for priority on the first wave. But he beat me too it. I had twenty minutes to beat him in average waves. His first wave scored him a 4.69, now I had to get a 5 to take the lead. A few moments went by and I looked out at the horizon and saw the set moving in. I tried paddling out without him noticing to try get the upper hand. I saw the perfect wave heading straight for me so I started paddling for it. It was a really good wave but had a lot of sections to it but I managed to get a few turns in. as I was paddling back out the announced I had the lead with a 5.94. After catching waves back and fourth I managed to get through to the semis because my last wave scored me a 9.45. I managed to win the semis and head to the finals. Now I had 30 min to beat this guy max. Now max has been surfing for 4 more years than I have and in my opinion is a really good surfer for a 16 year old. Fifteen minutes had passed and he was sitting on a total score of 13.83 and I needed a 4.66 to take the lead but I wanted to get a 7 . So I wasted 8 minutes sitting in the water waiting for that 7 score wave. i had 3 minutes left in this final to score a 4.66 as I looked out into the ocean I saw a wave heading in I battled Max to get the wave with 1 minute left I stood up on the wave and surfed my heart out. I did turn after tuning flowing down the wave. After a whole weekend filled with surfing it finally came to an end. As I walked out onto the beach they called out my score and it was a 4.65. that put my total score to a 14.84. That ment Max beat me by a 0.93. Now that’s not mad after a month in hospital and a year of just free surfing.

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Hey, Jay!

Nice to "meet" you here on Steemit today! Welcome, welcome, fellow surfer!

Be sure to check out my blog for all of my surf stories! Also, don't miss the chance to say "Hey" to @surfermarly and to @cassidyandfranks.

Following you now. I look forward to reading more of your surfing adventures here on Steemit.

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