Sinful Sunday - Delicacies from Old Delhi

Jama Masjid; one of the largest Mosques in India. It was built by emperor Shah Jahan between 1644 and 1656

Sunday's are our cheat days and we generally prefer starting early. This trick allows us to make best of clear roads and a pleasant weather.

Last Sunday we decided to go for an early morning ride followed by a food walk; tasting the much talked delicacies of Chandni Chowk.

Old Delhi. Busy, bustling streets. Narrow lanes with old havelis on both sides. Passages, so narrow that they allow for a single person to pass, leading to clearings with large shops. Shops, lots of them, selling all sorts of stuff, from wedding cards in bulk to fine wedding wear and jewellery. Warm, affectionate people. Food everywhere you look.

Chandni Chowk is a quintessential Indian bazaar experience. One that has to be experienced with all the senses. The constant activity on the streets, sometimes overwhelming for the sheer density of people and establishments. The cries of vendors retailing everything from safety pins to art jewellery and everything in between. The enticing aromas emanating from every other street side eatery, some so famous that they command queues at meal times and then of course the actual taste, the sensorial delight at trying some of these dishes that this old part of Delhi is so famous for.

Some of the food that Chandni Chowk is famous for, is not available at all across the rest of the country and even if it is, there’s a slim chance that anyone will get it as right as these decades-old eateries. Unique dishes, both sweet and savoury, perfected over years, served hot off the girdle in most cases. On the few occasions that I have been to Chandni Chowk, I have regretted being limited by the quantities I can eat.
Source

Pouring list from our gastronomical walk last Sunday:

Nihari at Haji Shabrati Nihariwale
722 Haveli Azam Khan, Near Chitli Qabar

Deep inside the by-lanes of Matia Mahal in Jama Masjid area is this paradise for Nihari lovers. Nihari is slow-cooked meat of Beef or lamb and mutton/ chicken along with bone marrow. The word Nihar is an Arabic word which means ‘day’ and is typically served after sunrise prayers. The restaurant is cooks Nihari overnight and starts serving around 6:30am and generally gets sold out by 8:30am.

Golden Bakery
Shop 543, Bazar Matia Mahal

This 50 year old bakery serves a variety of breads - Coconut bread, dry fruit bread, plum cake, butter jam sheermal to name a few. Had our hands on this cereals cookie which left a strong saunf (fennel seeds) flavor.

Cool Point for Shahi Tukda, Rabri and Mango ice-cream
972, Bazaar Matia Mahal, Opp. Jama Masjid Gate 1

The Shahi Tukda comes with a layer of custard and nuts on top of bread which is deep fried in desi ghee. Later dipped in a milk and sugar syrup with flavours of saffron and rosewater. Served piping hot with rabri.
PS: Don’t forget to ask for Mango Ice-cream. Served separately but worth those extra calories.

Lotan Chole Wala, Chawri Bazaar
Barsha Bullah Chowk

The cholas here are worth leaving your bed early on a Sunday morning. For those who love their spice, this is as good as it gets. Serving since 1977, the cholas (boiled chickpeas) are served with kulcha (white flour bread), garnished with chopped onions, juicy tomatoes, coriander and green chillies. Honestly I would not be able to give directions for it but then just reach Barsha Bullah Chowk and ask anyone for Lotan, almost everyone knows it.

Yes most of them are waiting for their turn

thats the closest I could reach

PS: I’m quite fond of spicy food still a medium spiced Chanas managed to bring out a few tears. Order accordingly.

Shyam Sweets
112 Chawri Bazaar

This 90 year old eatery claims to have a secret recipe for its Bedmi Poori. Its essentially a combination of deep fried stuffed puries with spiced lentil(urad dal) served with spicy potato curry(aloo sabji) and khatti meethi pumpkin(kaddu)sabji. This place doesn't have place to sit however have those long tables to stand and enjoy those.

Nagori Halwa - Nagori is a small crispy poori which needs to be stuffed with hot halwa. Made in desi ghee this not too sweet halwa was the perfect ending to all the sinful eating.

Lustful Lassi. Did i say end to food in my last line? Well what better way to end than the sweet lassi served in clay pots. What makes a lassi perfect is that perfect blend., the consistency. i can easily say that this was the best lassi I've ever had and will try not to miss it whenever I visit Old Delhi.

Here's a summary of things we tried:

1. Nihari
2. Loten Chole Kulche
3. Shahi Tukda
4. Mango Ice Cream
5. Bedmi Aloo
6. Nagori Halwa
7. Lassi
8. Flavored Milk
9. Chai (Masala Tea)
10. Cookies
11. Pan

Would soon be doing more visits to Chandni Chowk covering those charm filled Havelis and the unique doors.

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