Rock Climbing Training

Season 01

Workout No. 005 ~~ JAN/13

Base Fitness Phase – Week 1

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I love the smell of coffee in the morning.. As I discussed in my post earlier today, Friday did not exactly go as I had planned it out. I wanted to get to the bouldering gym at lunch, but that didn't happen because of a presentation I forgot that I had said I would go to. Then there was a race to meet an end-of-week deadline, so the afternoon was hectic. Long story short, I ended up going out for drinks, and no climbing was done.

But that's okay!

We're being nice to ourselves. We have flexibility in how we train and what we do. Just because something said so on a calender, that doesn't make it gospel. THAT shit ain't cool. We're aiming to keep things light, fun, approachable, and a little bit aloof maybe. We'll wiggle Fridays workout over to Sunday, and it's all good! We'll have to go 3 days in a row (Sat, Sun, Mon), be we're going to keep our minds alive to the stresses we're putting on our body, and we're going to refrain from going to hard and hurting ourselves.

With that, lets get rip our clothes off, and get in to bed with DAY 5. If you're just joining us, you might not know what I'm talking about, in which case, I forgive you, but you owe me.. fucking BIG TIME. Today was (our second, and succesful attempt at ) DAY 5 of the first season of our journey on the never ending pursuit of climbing excellence, which as per the training calendar below, was our FIRST "Outdoor Mileage" (OM) training day of the season. In general, days like this are meant for getting on real rock, and getting some leading in to train your mind as well. With the wet season in full swing over here on Vancouver Island, that shit is just not gonna happen. So while we're still going to be lead climbing, we're going to be indoors -- it'll have to do. Be sure to keep in mind though, that we're still supposed to generally keep this similar to ARC training in that we're climbing routes that are 'pretty easy' compared to how hard you're actually able to climb. We're talking endurance workouts still -- not power.

Check out how the calendar for the rest of January looks!

January 2018 - Season 1

Click for fullscreen version

Shiiiiit I forgot to change the calendar again... Next time...?

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The Workout:

The Plan (The Good):

OM Day #1.

• 7 picthes of climbing. That's all, that's it. treat it like endurance climbing.

Objective Review (The Bad):

• Climbed 6 pitches on lead: (1-5.9 pitch, 5-5.10a pitches);
• Climbed 1 pitch on toprope: (5.11c)

Subjective Review (The Ugly)

Today was my first day doing any lead climbing since myself, @somebuttstuff, @jkms and some other buddies went to the boulderfields last summer. I've been tied up and beat up with injuries and work.

Today went really well though. Got a solid 6 pitches of 5.10a climbing in, and then did my final 7th pitch on a very pump 5.11c (on toprope).

Generally, I'd say today was awesome. It's great to get back on lead. I always forget how much tighter you squeeze then there's the opportunity to take a bit of a whipper. I felt really good up there -- hands were dry, arms and back were strong, legs felt good. No major concerns. Everything felt smooth, and I kept myself from psyching myself out.

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This is the part where I'd like to try to share something with each post.

Last time, I shared a picture of my climbing gym. This time, since I remembered where I had stashed my GoPro, I figured I'd be that guy and shoot a little bit of a video. I forgot how much effort it is to edit a video (if you can call what I did editing). Here's a little 1ish minute long video of the first route we climbed. Thanks, @somebuttstuff for the belay!

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That's it for now -- I'll see you on Day 6!

Be well, stay safe, and I'll see you on the sharp side (once it dries out around here).

On the rocks!

Rock on!

Be advised -- I'm working on a picture for the saying above... and while on that note -- lots of people say "Climbing!" and reply with "Climb on!"... but I find that boring, so I say "On the rocks!" and "Rock onnnnn!".

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