...PART TWO of "The Oldest Building in San Francisco" continues.

When I relocated to California, I began slowly ticking California missions off my travel checklist. There are 21 missions in California, all built between 1769 and 1833, with the last mission, being a mere half mile from my house, in Sonoma.

From genocide and smallpox, to helping to influence California statehood and metropolitan development, missions are controversial and bittersweet historically.

I was recently in San Francisco to see a concert and visited Mission Dolores, also known as Mission San Francisco de Asis - my 5th mission. It's the oldest building in San Francisco and has one of the few existing cemeteries - and the oldest - in the city.

A visit to California is not complete without a visit to at least one mission. If you are in San Francisco, that mission is Mission Dolores.

Welcome to part two of this two part series about this special place - join me on stops #3 and #4 of the self-guided walking tour, below!

(Check out part one here!)

Mission Dolores Mosaic, Guillermo Granzio, 1984

Stop #3: Museum

Heading to the museum you pass by a beautiful mosaic designed by local artist, Guillermo Granzio (1923-1996). The mural depicts the arrival of the Spanish in the Bay Area, Junipero Serra, Native peoples, birds, plants and more. Learn more about it here.

Follow the tour signs and visit the museum, which opened in 1976, celebrating the bicentennial of the Mission.

The museum includes relics of Junipero Serra, intricate church vestments, and an impressive collection of jewelry, weapons, clothing, and everyday objects utilized by the Indigenous people who lived at the Mission. Check out the abalone necklaces by the door, they are beautiful and sacred items.

Statue of Junipero Serra in the courtyard by the museum

Stop #3.5: Junipero Serra

This statue is one of the many artistic depictions of Junipero Serra. He became a saint in 2015 and is very controversial - for good reason.

Serra's goal, when he relocated to San Diego from Spain, was to convert as many Native peoples as possible to Catholicism. He founded nine missions and died in 1784.

When Native peoples visited the Mission, often seeking food (thanks to the Spanish decimating the ecosystem), the priests would invite the Indians to stay at the Mission for food and more - to be converted and often enslaved to farm, build structures and serve the priests.

Priests focused on converting Indians, including culturally - forcing them to lose their Native languages and culture - even their names.

Junipero Serra preaches to Native peoples, 1787

Smallpox, syphilis, and other diseases permeated the Mission. Indians were beat if they spoke their Native language. Lack of foodstuffs caused the Mission to rely on missions outside the area (including Sonoma) to feed "residents."

Things went bad, fast, and people started leaving - in the summer of 1795, 280 people left.

Last year, protests were held by anti-Serra-sainthood groups, including Indigenous descendants of the Native peoples who lived at the Mission.

On the flipside, supporters of Serra's sainthood, including some Native peoples, are seeking opportunities to engage Indigenous culture in San Francisco, including Ohlone language classes.

No matter where one stands on Serra's sainthood, one cannot deny the lasting, painful impact that the mission system had on Native populations - approximately 5,000 are buried at Mission Dolores.

Stop #4: Cemetery

This was a real treat. I love cemeteries - they represent the delicate balance of life and death, the culture of a community, and often hold rarely told stories about those buried within the cemetery walls.

The cemetery at Mission Dolores is the oldest in San Francisco. It used to be way bigger, but, land demands for the growing local population required the cemetery to shrink. Those who were once buried in "old" big cemetery are primarily buried in mass graves in the smaller cemetery.

It's a perfect representation of the diversity of the region - Ohlone, Irish, Spanish, Mexicans, Italians, French - are all buried here.

A memorial for the Native peoples who are buried at the Mission depicts Saint Kateri Tekawitha, a Mohawk woman and the first Native American saint.

 

The grave of Fastino (Bay Miwok) and Obulinda (Ohlone) at the cemetery. Both Indians were baptized at the Mission. Turns out the Mission's curator is a descendant of the couple.

 

A traditional Ohlone tule house is another reminder of the impact the Mission had on local Native populations

 

Francisco de Haro was the first Spanish mayor of San Francisco

 

Luis Antonio Arguello was the first California-born governor of Alta California

 

Dia a de los Muertos items for sale at the gift shop

After exploring the graveyard, visit the gift shop. It's chock full of everything from rosaries to abalone jewelry, Day of the Dead items handmade in Mexico, fridge magnets and books.

Final thoughts

Mission Dolores is a powerful experience - the beauty of the architecture and art, the haunting memory of the Native populations that died helping to expand the Catholic faith, the notable San Franciscans who are buried on site, and more.

The fact that the Mission has survived so much - earthquakes, famine, disease, genocide, battles, and the Gold Rush - is remarkable and something many of faith would consider a "miracle."

A visit to San Francisco generally includes a trip to Fisherman's Wharf, a ride on a trolley, and a boat ride on the Bay, but it cannot be truly complete without a visit to where San Francisco was born - Mission Dolores.

Take note

Mission Dolores is open every day except Thanksgiving, Christmas, Easter and New Year's Day. Hours vary depending on the time of the year (see website). The Mission does not receive public funds to preserve the property and suggested donations are $5 (adult) and $3 (seniors, students). Guided tours are available with 4-6 weeks notice. The property is ADA accessible.

Take action

Mission Dolores is located at 3321 16th St., San Francisco, California. Visit the Mission's website for more information, which includes info about tours, church services and special events. You can also call (415) 621-8203. Finally, visit San Francisco Travel to learn about more cool stuff to do in the city by the Bay.

Have you ever visited a California mission? 

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Check out part one of "The Oldest Building in San Francisco."

[//]:# (!steemitworldmap 37.764278 lat -122.426636 long A visit to Mission Dolores - Part Two d3scr)