Blog-GL! ¿Cómo se forman las olas?
The marine waves are a consequence of the propagation of the movement between two media, the air of the atmosphere and the water of the sea. Changes in atmospheric pressure cause oscillations in the liquid surface. In turn, the action of the wind that rubs the surface gives rise to what is known as capillary waves, when its thrust is lighter, or gravitational waves, when the friction on the sheet of water is more intense.
Generally, stronger winds cause higher waves. Factors such as the speed and intensity of wind action come into play, the amount of time that air maintains a stable direction, the area of the water surface affected and the depth. As the waves approach the shore, they move more slowly because there is less depth, while the ridge increases its height. The process continues until the raised area moves faster than the underwater part, at which point the movement is destabilized and the wave breaks.
In addition, there is another type of waves of different origin: they are those that constitute the so-called bottom sea, lower and rounded. They arise due to differences in pressure, temperature and salinity between adjacent areas, which cause the movement of water from where these parameters are lower towards areas where they are greater. The liquid when moving forms currents and waves.
