Learning Surfing and How Not To Chase The Big Waves
Since I met my boyfriend I wanted to learn how to surf. It always seems to me like a cool sport that I have to try. As a runner I usually prefer to keep my feet on a solid ground, but still I wanted to try to catch some waves.
One time, when my boyfriend and I traveled to a small beach town in El Salvador, I decided it was time to learn how to surf! He tried to teach me how to surf on his surfboard, but I didn’t managed to stand on his short board. It was clear that I needed a larger surfboard to practice on.
My next try was in another beach in El Salvador, where I found a place that rented longboards. The only problem was that the entire beach was full of stones, so for a newbie like me it wasn’t ideal. But it didn’t stop me, I was too excited not to get into the water and try to learn how to surf. After a few painful falls I managed to ride the white water.
The next day I wanted to try to catch some waves and for some reason I decided to go to a surf point, where the real surfers were surfing. It was BIG MISTAKE. On my second try I fell down so hard, I thought I going to drown. I wasn’t ready for those kind waves, and I needed to swim back to the shore. Once I got close to the shore the waves kept dragging me back inside. The seabed and the beach were full of stones and it only made it harder to get out of there. Thanks to my boyfriend and another guy, I finally managed to get outside of water. After this scary experience, I decided it was enough for me.
I left surfing aside for a while, but when I moved to Costa Rica to a surfer town I couldn’t resist it and I had to try it again. I took a surf lesson and I even bought a surfboard. Eventually I was able to surf on the whitewater and on some small waves (very small). Of course I wish I could catch some bigger and better waves, but I learned my lesson, and besides that it’s still fun to surf on the small ones. After all I’m more of a land sports kind of person, I’m a runner..
Hey @Helenril, great story and pictures. If you keep at it, you will keep improving, just like anything else. Sometimes our obstacles are all in the mind. I struggle to surf really crowded breaks, but take me to a pumping beach where theres no one out and il have a great session, even if its bigger. Regarless, as long as you are enjoying yourself it doesnt matter if you are catching waves or not :)
Yeah I know I could get better, but as you said as long as I'm having fun, it's doesn't matter
Sounds fun and terrifying all at once!
Hahaha, I know. I promise you it's fun!
Congratulations @helenril! You have completed some achievement on Steemit and have been rewarded with new badge(s) :
Click on any badge to view your own Board of Honor on SteemitBoard.
For more information about SteemitBoard, click here
If you no longer want to receive notifications, reply to this comment with the word
STOP
Keep trying, ye the more ideal place to learn in a nice sheltered area on sand with a foamy. But hell your brave going to the point on a second attempt.
With safety in mind i think you need to research surfing or have a lesson or two. Sounds like you got caught in a shore break situation which has killed plenty of people. This is not to scare you just to make you aware.
Any question feel free to ask.
Yeah I know, it just was a stupid decision I made. Here in our town it's more safe, but I'm still caution. I don't go too deep or try catching bigger waves, because I know I'm not ready to it. Thanks for stopping by
Cool! I wish you to be a good surfer!
I doubt it, but it doesn't really matter as long as I'm having fun
i would love to learn that one day :D
Sounds like a scary experience. I heard about water like that sucks you back into the deep at one of the Hawaiian islands. Good thing to had your boyfriend and the other guy to get you out of that loop.
Yeah, it was scary but part of it was my fault, I learned my lesson
Congratulations @helenril! You have completed some achievement on Steemit and have been rewarded with new badge(s) :
Click on any badge to view your own Board of Honor on SteemitBoard.
For more information about SteemitBoard, click here
If you no longer want to receive notifications, reply to this comment with the word
STOP
Great post thanks for sharing your surfing experience.
I learned to surf reef breaks, you can just imagine all the cuts and bruises I got from falling off the board and getting wiped out. But it was fun.
Wow, you're brave! I guess now nothing can scare you when you surf
I haven't surfed for a long time and now I feel scared again lol.
I can relate to that, lol
The long board is a great idea. I'm sure you'll get the hang of it. The best part is just being out in the water and getting some exercise.
Cheers. Keep practicing.
Yeah, even though it's harder to get deeper with a long board, it's easier to catch a wave with it. It takes time, but there is no reason to rush :)