Ukrainian embroidery shirt (Vyshyvanka): tradition, ornaments and symbols. Part 2

Part 1

Basic colors of the Ukrainian national embroidery five: white, red, black, blue and yellow.

Explanation of each region has its. For example, in Polesie (especially in Zhytomyr region), and it was not accepted intersperse embroidery in black. He was regarded as a symbol of death and sorrow.

But the residents of Podillia (Kamenetz-Podolsk, Vinnitsa and Khmelnitsky) was considered the black color of the earth, and its presence in the embroidery to symbolize wealth and prosperity. Here the black could well act on basic embroidery.

Black, as a symbol of the earth, fertility and wealth also lies at the heart of the famous embroidery Borshchevskaya (Ternopil region).

We should also mention the so-called Sokal shirt. In the area of Lviv even wedding shirt embroidered in black on a gray linen fabric.

 Yet the basic values of the colors in the Ukrainian national shirts are as follows:

• Red. It was believed that the red man fills a positive life energy. It symbolizes the sun's energy. It is believed that it protects the lowest chakra person responsible for the musculoskeletal system, the rectum and the genitourinary system.

• Blue. This color in itself considered a powerful talisman. Symbolizing the sky and the water, and thus the physical and spiritual purity, he guaranteed freedom from diseases, and peace of mind. Embroidery blue protected the most vulnerable - children and men. The latter - for the reason that they are often faced with danger.

It is also believed that the blue oberegovaya embroidery protects the sixth chakra, located in the "third eye" and is responsible for human intelligence.

• Azure color oberegovogo ornament protects fifth chakra, which is responsible for respiratory, ear, skin and creative abilities.

• Gold (yellow). This color of the sun, honey and wheat - that is, prosperity, wealth, prosperity and joy. This color pattern in the sacred shirt material prosperity promised its support. In oberegovoy embroidery yellow protects third chakra - the solar plexus, the center of life energy.

• Green. The Ukrainian national tradition was considered a feminine color as a symbol of youth, spring renewal. At the same time he is able to protect from the elements interwoven in the ornamental embroidery on men, as well as helping to balance human emotions. In oberegovoy embroidery protects fourth chakra - heart.

• Black, as we mentioned, it was interpreted in different ways: for some, it was the color of sadness, for others - a symbol of the earth and fertility.

• Purple color oberegovoy embroidery is treated as the seventh chakra defender in charge of the area temechko. Ostensibly this color associates with God.

Note that in the old days, people can easily "read" embroidery - determined by the pattern and embroidery techniques, from what region of its owner, and even learn a few things about his character, destiny and desires.

Shirts - amulets

The embroidery patterns necessarily decorated clothes edge. It was believed that these are the places through which a shirt can get evil, because it is on the hands, neck and hem offer access to the body. Embroidery in these areas bore and carries an occult character, and the characters in it - it is primarily charms. Maiden shirt decorated with embroidery on the sleeves, around the neck and bottom hem. Married women embroidered shirts also on the chest, collar, sleeves. Hem decorated with embroidery larger than that of girls, because designs complemented characters kind of husband.

Embroidery pattern are divided into three main groups: geometric (abstract), vegetable, zoomorphic (animal).

Geometric pattern are closely related to Slavic mythology and Tripoli culture. There are archaeological findings, confirming that lived on the territory of Ukraine by representatives of civilization Trypil'ska create everyday objects with patterns similar to traditional Ukrainian ornaments. There is also archaeological evidence that the Scythians, who lived before our era, wore clothes with embroidered ornaments identical to the national Ukrainian.

At the same geometric patterns considered masculine and vegetable - women.

Among the traditional male characters: all kinds of fire signs (rhombic lattice), sun signs (with spikes diamond-rays or direct cross) and diamonds with a dot in the middle (the sign of the fields sown with seed).

Originally female geometric symbols - a straight line (earth sign), all kinds of spiral waves and snake (water marks), as well as oblique cross, resembling the letter X - the mark runes "harvest" and the sign of the Moon.

But the pattern of people's shirts is not only male or only female characters. They are usually combined, because each person - is the yin and yang. Therefore, curved snake - a symbol of Water and eight-pointed star - the sun embroidered on both male and female embroidered. As symbols of the maternal and paternal power were made to put on baby shirt as a talisman.

Upper flower-stars beams can be positioned as a cross (vertical) - this sign draws power of the sun.

If the upper star-rays are arranged on the diagonal - the man guarding the power of the moon.

Popular male pattern was a diamond with a dot in the middle. This pattern portrayed sown field and a symbol of virility and fertility. It was believed that diamond embroidered on the shirt is able to accelerate the completion of the genus. This diamond in different variations found in almost every men's embroidery. Often with such a diamond rhombus located beveled straight lines in the middle, symbolizing the rain.

Nowadays it is often present on women's shirts. Issledovatili Some believe that after marriage a woman could easily decorate their shirts so masculine symbol hoping for a quick addition to the family.

Separately, we note especially the traditions and manufacturing children's wear shirts.

In villages, the first baby shirt was made of worn stitching parental things. It was believed that they kept the energy of the parent, the child is able to protect against the evil eye and diseases. Girls sewed a shirt of my mother's things, the boys - from the father's. Therefore, the first-patterns charms battered child from the parents, along with their color symbols. For example, a girl - with black pattern, a symbol of fertility, which, inter alia, protected from infertility. A boy - with blue and green, which protects from the elements and injuries.

The first child receives personal shirt in three years. Mother has created for him individually oberegovuyu embroidery, which used exclusively for the red thread. The children were only one red - the color of blood kinship ties.

On children's shirts also often depicted animals - a dog, a horse, a cock or a fabulous birds.

Floral ornament

Viburnum

Clusters of viburnum embroidered on shirts for married women, as well as Wedding towels. Viburnum symbolize the immortality of sorts and motherhood: the tree is the embodiment of the mother, and berries - children. That is why the snowball embroidered with the best wear for women who have children. But to portray children's embroidered Kalina was not accepted, however, as with all other kinds of symbols and fertility.

Oak.

Our ancestors believed that the image of the tree on the shirt protects man from evil people, give strength and courage. In general, the oak was a symbol of Perun - the god of solar energy. The boys certainly embroidered shirts amulets with the image of oak to male power and energy does not leave them, and multiply by the day.

Separately, make a reservation, that the combination of oak and viburnum, intertwined in a decorative pattern, often applied to the wedding the newlyweds shirt. The logic of this pattern is quite clear.

Poppy.

It carries a kind of eternal value memory, but because of his image - a talisman against evil. At the same time it was believed that on the spot death of a soldier on the battlefield poppy blooms in spring. Therefore, if the family's husband died in the war, the wife shirt embroidered with poppies as a sign of mourning, as well as pledging to preserve and continue the Cossack family.

Lilies.

These shirts worn by girls who are preparing to step into the marriage. However, lily never embroidered separately. The ornament consisted of a flower bud, a leaf and a cross. The first three symbolize the birth, development and infinity of human life. Magical cross blessed couple to start a family. After marriage, a woman is not wearing embroidered with the same ornaments, and gave it to her unmarried sister or girlfriend.

Hop.

Men's shirts with the image of hops were young unmarried lads. This flower is a symbol of youth, riot and love. But a married man to wear a shirt with a pattern was considered indecent. A similar treatment is embroidered with the image of periwinkle - a very common flower in the Ukrainian embroidered shirts.

Grapes.

Such patterns symbolized the joy and the beauty of family life. Embroideries with grapes inherent in Poltava and Kiev. But in Chernigov pattern with grapes applied only towels and tablecloths. At the same time the presence of flowers and bunches of grapes on the men's embroidered considered absolutely unacceptable.

Mallow.

Embroidery, richly decorated with the image of this flower has been and remains very popular in eastern and southern Ukraine.

Rose pink mallow or - one of the favorite flowers of the Ukrainians, it is grown for decorating the home almost at each hut. But vishivka this flower shirt bears exclusively aesthetic, not oberegovuyu function.

It is essential that the back of the shirts was not nodules. Given the importance of this sacred shirt, thought and believed that the nodules on the pattern can be knotted on the fate and life path.

Part 1