Surfing's In The Blood: I Win the Best Aunty Award
Torquay Point From Above
Feeling tired? Salt water'll fix it. A bit under the weather? Go have a surf. Depressed? Get out in the sea.
This was the advice I'd always been given as a kid by my Dad - it didn't matter what my excuse was, he'd shake me out of bed and take me surfing. I remember crying paddling out to a break once because my arms were sore and the reef was a fair distance to the shore, and I had a terrible cold and he'd woken me up at 5 am. He was right though - I did feel marginally better. When I think about it now, most of my father's philosophy's came from his contemplation of the ocean - like 'ya gotta keep moving, kid, ya gotta keep moving'
Life is like riding a wave. To keep your balance, you got to keep moving - Eric Carlson
Eventually, the salt water became like heroin to my bone's pains and psychological angst. Even now, with all the other things I enjoy in my life, it's the sea that fixes me utterly. My nephew's just picked up this stoke, much to his father's pride. 'I love surfing sooooo much' he effuses, in his 12 year old joy 'it just cheers me up and makes me feel awesome!'.
Yesterday, Fisho's was working, and I had such a hankering for salt water.
Fisho's Beach only breaks on bigger swells. Sometimes when every else is too big, it's an option - and the call 'Fishos is working!' is an indication of how big the swell is on the SurfCoast. To be honest, I haven't surfed there in years, and the last time I did, I wrapped my foot around my board on an awkward duck dive and the brand new fin sliced my foot open to the bone. I recall the freezing cold had numbed my foot to the pain, and Dad peeling my thick winter suit over my ankle in a way father's are good at - brutality and lack of tenderness come to mind.
Fisherman's Beach, Victoria, Australia
It's a wave for mal riders and grommets, but it looked so nice last night when I drove past I wish I'd brought my board with me. I thought it would be too windy and big, so didn't bother. Yet Fishos was clean and sheltered, and my immediate thought went to my nephew, who'd just be getting off the school bus. I rang him and said I'd be coming past to grab him, so have his board and wetty out the front.
Talk about excitement! I remember that feeling, getting home from school and there's no one home and I want a ride to the beach but I'm too young and not allowed to go by myself just yet. He couldn't stop saying: 'Oh my god, I just don't know how to thank you!' and not really knowing that his utter stoke was thanks enough!
Despite being stuck on the beach, I got to dip my toes in the water and feel the pale afternoon sun on my skin, and make a beautiful connection with my beautiful blue eyed nephew. This morning, on the way to work, a text came through from him:
I just wanted to say yesterday was the BEST SURF and so much fun! Thankyou so much for taking me!
Surfing's clearly in his blood.
Great story! You guys are blessed having such nature at your doorstep. Thanks for sharing with the rest of the world! Your nephew has a great aunt :)
Aw, thanks @michelmake! Hope you are well - haven't seen you in a while! It's so hard to keep up with everyone! I'd love you to enter my book contest, by the way - how's your reading going? xx
Yeah I know what you mean! At some point there is just too much going on to keep up with everything :) My one book a month is still going strong. About to finish May’s read this week! Whats this challenge about?
Here you go!!
https://busy.org/@riverflows/bedside-books-what-are-you-reading-a-chance-to-win-sbd
Just checked it out! I'm up for the challenge :) Great initiative!
Yay!
What a cool afternoon for both of you :)
It was really special xx