Let's start with the basics.

Set your ISO value to 100 (the lowest possible).

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Now turn the wheel to Manual and set the aperture on which your lens is the sharpest possible.

You can check correct values on this website or visit the website of the manufacturer.
If you don't have time, or you can't find the values the rule of the thumb is to use the aperture number that is the double of the minimal aperture number.

If you shoot wide open, the image will be soft, due to the imperfections of your glass.
On the other hand, if you shoot with the very high aperture number, that will cause the diffraction on your aperture blades.

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Now set the shutter speed so you can have the image that is well exposed. The rule of the thumb tells us that the speed should be the reciprocal value of the focal length (200 mm - shutter speed 1/200 s) but with the modern stabilized lens, be free to use something like 1/60 s.

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And take continuous shooting mode, so you can take about 30 images because the noise is reduced by the square root of the number of the images taken. For example, 4-5 images will reduce the noise 2 times, 9-10 images will reduce the noise 3 times, and you will need 100 pictures to further reduce the noise to 1/10 from the starting amount.

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And put the Moon exactly in the middle - there is the sharpest area.

Now the magic starts - wavelets

If you are familiar with the FFT (Fast Fourier Analysis) this will be easy for you to understand.
The logic is the same, only instead of using the sinusoidal line, you will use some wavelet function.
Amplitude is the same thing in both cases.
And the frequency in terms of wavelets means that the function will be "stretched" or "pressed".

Link to the Software, Registax

What can you expect?

• improvement from the correct ISO - lower noise
• improvement from the correct aperture - at least 20-30 %
• noise reduction from the stacking - about 3x
• magic from the wavelet transforms - difficult to express with the numbers.

Test tonight and send me your results

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