My entry for Monomad photography challenge

in monomad •  20 days ago 

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#monomad @by @brumest

Bodyboarder watching the waves

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Wow, I love your photos. There are so simple and there's always so much going on.
You have got a perfect eye.

Posted using Partiko iOS

Oh... thank you... i appreciate it so much. I often feel like i'm completely invisible here. And why should anyone get it anyway?

The beach shots in black and white always look so retro!

It would be even more so if i had a guy with an old long board. They don't ride those here though. The board would get broken in half probably on the first wave !

Yikes! Were the waves smaller back then or were the surfers tougher?

Posted using Partiko Android

No. The waves weren't smaller. The surfers weren't really tougher but i bet people say they were. They did take risks at places where you could get hurt and not have anyone around to help you. The guys nowadays do things that were absolutely unheard of 50 or 60 years ago.

Seal Beach, where this shot is, is a really powerful hollow shorebreak type of wave most of the time. Old longboards just don't fit in the wave. so mostly bodyboarders ride it. Small modern surfboards work sometimes but you have to be really good and even then you will likely break your board. Does that help ? lol

It does help. I'm just wondering how they ever made the longboards work. If the waves haven't changed much, that is.

Posted using Partiko Android

They work in mushier waves. The waves at every spot are different. Places like Malibu, Trestles, San Onofre are great for long boards. At Seal Beach where i take all these photos. The northside of the pier is much calmer and better for long boards and the far end of the beach is the San Gabriel River mouth and that's another mellow long board spot. I haven't taken many photos of the longboard spots. The wilder shorebreak at southside of the pier and an hour south at the Wedge in Newport are my favorites to shoot.