RGB Modding a TV in North America - Theory and Review

in izlude •  10 days ago

Izlude signing in!

So I've hit a road block in this project. I've been pondering for a while... what should I do... hmmm... Well so far I've been able to power on the set and enjoy the awesome quality output! Love this TV, it's literally the KING of all Mitsubishi CRTs (again, it's the flagship, the LAST direct view by Mitsubishi with all the visual bells and whistles).

I have not been able to find a schematic or service manual for my model, again, it's the CS-40809 if anyone knows. I COULD try to dust off some of the ICs and get the numbers directly off of them, but there's quite a few in there to look at. Check out this unfortunately blurry image:


The two fat ones look like convergence chips that you'd see on a CRT RPTV. I guess since this Direct View CRT is so big, it needs them??? Then there's a smaller one behind, can't see very well.. There's also a card that reads GUIDE at the top (closed cap? menu? OSD? this might be it!!!) There are several chips on this card... and then there's a space behind the card that I can't really see very well due to the angle. I'm trying to avoid touching the neck board which hangs right above.

Truth be told, I'm probably gonna have to open it again and take a clear photo, because as I am posting, I'm now thinking that this is the GUIDE card (in the blue slot) might be a way to feed RGB into the set.

Now if I do pinpoint the Jungle IC or (AIO chip found in later sets) and I still can't get a schematic, there's one tried and true method... and that is to solder a wire to EVERY PIN on the chip. Then I simply lead those wires outside of the chassis, cover it up, power on and test each wire individually.

Here's the diagram, and I'll post my method below of how I intend to test them:

tv setup.png

METHOD: First thing to do would be to turn on the OSD with the TV remote (basically the normal menu). Stick wires in the back of my SEGA Genesis (HD model 1) use the ground + sync and put it into Line1 in the back of the TV. Next, take the RGB Ground line and also hook it into the Line1 ground. Finally, I will take the R G B wires from behind the SEGA and tap them on the various wires I brought out from inside the TV until I get an image.

Once I've located the RGB wires, I will isolate them. I will then need to locate the blanking pin. Luckily the SEGA has a 5v pin, so I can simply turn off the OSD menu with the remote once more, then tap the 5v wire from the SEGA onto the random wires until I get an image.

Once all the proper pins are located, I can go ahead and proceed with the modification, add some resistors, and ports to the back of the set.



I came across a video one day where a guy is RGB modding his TV and actually LICKS HIS FINGERS AND TOUCHES THE JUNGLE IC TO DETECT THE RGB PINS!!!! I sure as hell wasn't gonna do that... but I thought hmm, maybe I can just solder wires to each pin (thus my diagram you just saw above).

Some might ask, why not just convert RGB to component? This TV DOES have component... well I've been down that road, and I don't like it. I realllly don't like component! Here's a few reasons:

(some claim it does because there's no input lag created by converting... but that's not what I experienced, so the mod must be done).
-80 Columns Text is NOT crisp!
-It doesn't look Arcade-like (more on this).
-The colors are still raunchy
-Its definitely NOT as sharp as raw RGB, but it does look better than s-vid at least.

Now I mentioned that component doesn't look arcade-like. Let me explain what I mean. If you folks have ever played games like Metal Slug on an arcade, you'll notice that the screen flashes a very bright white, animations are FAST (using a flame thrower shows some sick animations). I call this the Hertz Effect. Kinda like the soap opera effect on modern TVs, but this time it is desirable. This is what people mean when they say after modding that it looks like an arcade monitor. It LOOKS and FEELS and PLAYS like an arcade monitor, quite literally! You don't get this same full hertz effect (15khz to be exact) using composite or RGB to Component conversion.

This is why I'll probably never go with the component method ever again. Once you taste RGB, you can't go back. You just can't!!!

But anyway... I'm going to have to put my little project on hold for the moment. I just found out (as I'm typing this believe it or not) that we are moving. I dread thinking about having to move this heavy TV set... ugh... OK More to come as soon as possible!!!

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