RGB Modding a TV in North America - pt1

in izlude •  4 months ago

Hello everyone! Izlude here. Today we're going to look at this MONSTER of a TV that I pulled off the street about 2 weeks ago. I've been on a trip, just got back, and now I want to see what's cooking!

The model is a "Mitsubishi CS-40809". It is a 40" CRT, a beast that weighs a good 300 lbs. Is it a good candidate for RGB modding? That's what I intend to find out.

This is the LAST Direct View CRT produced by Mitsubishi, quite literally, the LAST Consumer CRT TV by this company, the FLAGSHIP!!! Holy moly did I find a real jewel!

IMG_20181113_114420.jpg

Some things worth mentioning: Most people believe that SONY Trinitrons are the best candidates due to their well defined scan lines, something retro gamers are after in the RAW (not the immitation crap generated by classic console editions or external scalers). But what about other brands? Someone did mention using JVCs, especially the larger screens. They were said to be very similar to the output of a SONY PVM. I do know that Mitsubishi had some very NICE CRTs, and since this is a 40" I have on my hands, I predict a very good output.

Now here's where I hit my first roadblock. There is no power cord. Someone from the city goes around and cuts all wires from appliances and electronics left out on the streets. Crap..... So what did I do? I opened'er up! And just as I had hoped, the wire is NOT soldered on, but instead fastened by a simple clip! Easy enough eh?

wire.png

But hold on, I'm not about to stick pliars in there without considering that there's a risk. It's alarmingly close to the flyback transformer. If the tube still has a charge, I could get a bad jolt. Norally I'd use the'ol screw driver with alligator clips method to discharge this thing, but the sheer size of the tube is INTIMIDATING!!! I'm going to have to use a chicken stick. Basically a non-conductive pole, screw driver or nail taped to the end and connected via alligator clips/wire just the same... Stand on a chair, wear rubber shoes, and prod from a distance.

I'll need the following materials:

-replacement cord
-insulated screw driver
-alligator clips
-6 awg wire
-rubber glove
-non-conductive pole
(pvc? wood? fiberglass?)

Last minute thoughts:

Will this TV play duck hunt? I won't really know until I plug it in, however there's a few things that lead me to believe it will, especially after the RGB modification. This TV has a bubble screen, a sure sign that no special scaling or processing will take place on the composite line. This TV does have YCrCb/Y-Ry-By inputs (digital version of YPbPr). It is possible that the scaling/processing is isolated away from the composite line.

If the set does not play duck hunt, there's always hope that RGB modding will allow for direct input, bypassing processing and giving me a raw scan, allowing the light gun to work. According to youtube, RGB monitors will play it, so here's hoping!!!

That's it for part 1. I'll be preparing my equipment in due time and going to work on getting the set powered up. I'll also need to find a service manual or schematic for this TV, which... I think might be a bit difficult considering not many of these were manufactured... and Mitsubishi quit the TV business in North America...

See you all next time! Game on!

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