Infrastructure On The Synchronistic Subsistence Homestead Part 3

Here, I am continuing to discuss homestead
infrastructure in this installment of the Synchronistic Subsistence
Homestead series. Today we will discuss bird housing, and begin a discussion of the larger
animal's infrastructure. Let's start with the birds.

Chicken House:

First of all the chicken house should be large enough to enclose the
chickens for extended lengths of time, if necessary. This may be
necessary for warmth in winter, and also at times when they are being
medicated, or need to be separated from other birds.

It also helps to have some compartments, in which birds, which are
being introduced into the flock can be isolated, or separated for
biological control. This is very helpful when bringing in new birds,
and can reduce fighting. This can have a great effect also on not
upsetting everyone, and throwing everyone off their lay.

There should be a reasonable amount of nest boxes for the number of
birds. My nest boxes, have an angled top, to prevent birds from
roosting on top of them. I also think there needs to be plenty of
roosting area provided away from the nesting area. This will also
prevent roosting in and around the nest boxes, which can be
exceedingly messy, and also make for dirty eggs.

Behind the nest boxes should be access from outside to collect eggs
from outside the coop. This can be very convenient, and I wish my
current coop had that available. Another thing to consider on nest
boxes is to have a way to isolate a setting hen, on her eggs. This can
be a wire, or wooden door that attaches to, or rolls down over a few
nest boxes, which also have a food, and water receptacle attached, so
the hen does not have to go long distances away from her eggs, when
setting. This can help prevent the hen from giving up her set, and
also these same areas can be used to break a setting hen out of her
broody as well, when necessary..

To make things easier, it is a good idea to have a cabinet for storing
things like medication, oyster shell, and other tools for scraping
down roosts etc...

Another thing that should be included is a brooder. A brooder should
be in the room for separating birds. Taking the time to build this in,
means that when baby chicks go on sale, or a hen hatches chicks that
need help, you are not scraping around for a place to put them. By
preparing for things you know are going to happen in the future, you
prevent troubles later.

With that in mind, it is a good idea to use the smallest wire you can
afford, in the parts of your system where it is practical. It is very
important to have good ventilation, even when things must be closed
for winter. You should have a plan for creating warmth in winter, and
circulating the air as well. It helps to understand how air moves
through a building. Good ventilation prevents disease, both for your
chickens, and for you!

It is also helpful to have prepared transporting equipment, for when
you must haul chickens to market, or to someone else. Having a few
cages set aside, can make all the difference, when you must move
birds. I cannot tell you how many cages, have gone through this place.
Kids have a tendency to misplace them, leave them to be run over,
etc... Having a high shelf in the chicken pen for them, built in,
would be a great thing!

Larger Animal Facilities:

Goats:

Goats require excellent fencing! They are hard on fences, like almost
no other animal. They stand. They climb. They jump. The majority of
the troubles of the homesteader with goats is going to be with the
fencing. This is why it is very important to get fencing right the
first time. Hot wire of course can help to prevent fence standing.
However, as I've said before, I am not a fan.

Welded wire seems useful, but in practice with goats, it leaves a lot
to be desired, as it tends to bend, and separate at the welds, leaving
a fence that falls apart. If used, it needs a lot of framing around
it, and the homesteader must be prepared to replace it frequently.

I like cattle panels better. However, to fence a large area, they are
quite expensive. Even so, they are very effective, though for
particularly jumpy goats, they may need a jumping deterrent across the
top. Cattle panels are much less likely to be damaged by goat
pressure, as long as they are properly installed.

Another option is wood fencing, always remembering that the wood must
be thick enough to stand chewing. Goats chew. They like wood. Wood can
be covered by wire, in trouble prone areas. The fence for goats must
be at least four feet tall, but five feet is better. If babies are
going to be contained, it is necessary to make fence spacing suitable
for containing them.

As far a goat housing goes, I find that a decent sized shed, for a
couple goats is fine. For winter keeping, it needs to be able to be
closed up for protection from winter storms. During kidding season, it
is nice to have more than one stall, as it is nice to be able to
separate a doe during kidding.

This shelter needs to be relatively tight for kidding season. Chilled
babies are not a great plan, and it never fails that miss Nanny WILL
have her babies on the coldest night of the year, and at the coldest
time of night! It is also nice to have a cabinet close by for
blankets, and towels for cleaning, and warming babies.

It is also nice to have a three sided run-in shed in each section of
pasture. Several small pastures are better than one big pasture. The
goats, and other animals run in the pastures will do better if there
is a place to get out of the rain. Goats hate being wet, and in a
quickly moving storm it is likely the homesteader is not going to have
to be out in the weather gathering goats to take them to a main
shelter.

The milk barn should be separate from the goat quarters. There should
be a roofed area with a milk stand or two for milking, and another
room for processing milk. This area can hold a cream separator, and an
ice chest of refrigerator for cooling milk. Milk filters should also
be available, as well as clean jars for storing the milk, and cream.
There should be cabinets for supplies, such as medicines, herbal
support, and vaccines, as well as supplies for udder cleaning.

There should also be a kid stall for isolating kids from their mothers
when necessary. Generally I follow a protocol with my kids that helps
produce healthy kids, without introducing a lot of germs, as well as
allowing the kids to take decent advantage of the mother's immunity,
especially to local parasites.

Over the years, I have found a real difference between bottle fed
kids, and mother fed kids. The mother fed kids are always healthier,
and much more resistant to diseases like E-coli, Floppy Kid Syndrome,
etc... Mother raised kids, are always larger, and thriftier. I use a
protocol in my barn to take advantage of this.

Generally, I leave the kids with their mom, for two to four weeks. I
often put the mom on the milk stand, and take an early milking of
colostrum from the freezer, as the kids needs very little of that.
After the initial few weeks, I begin taking the kids away from mom
during the day, and milking at night, before returning the kids to
mom. I provide hay or pasture to the kids, as well as their grain
ration for the day during their time away from Mom. Then eventually, I
pull the kids entirely, and milk twice a day for awhile.

There are many advantages to this protocol. This builds me healthier
kids. In addition, this gives a lead in to milking season that is
slower. I still have the ability to watch the doe closely, and develop
a good milking relationship, which makes both taming the babies, and
the doe over those weeks, much easier. It also gives me a once a day
milking time for awhile.

Next time we will be discussing the accommodations for sheep, and a
cow, and calf. I hope you all enjoy this installment!