Breathe

Surfing is often misconstrued as a sport. What we forget is that it preexisted itself as a sport and actually began life as an aquatic dance of ancient Hawaiin Kings.

Like any good dance, it takes hours of work and practice and a whole lot of training and skill development in between. This photo is that moment between the dances. As the surfer heads back out for the next wave he also has to master the "duck dive" In this case over shallow, sharp coral reef.

Its a hidden skill but it is fundamental​ to setting up the next dance.

©2017 Roy Harley All rights reserved.

...and breathe